Copper, brass & aluminum

[Leslie Bohoss]

Hello again!

This afternoon I got a package of metal (rest of big sheets) from a firm in the neighbourhood ca. about 10 kg. The biggest is 60cm X 50 cm, 2mm thick brass, and many smaller pieces. I read somewhere about painting on metal.

What about ground (or without)? Some tiny scratches, but I think sandpaper helps. Metal is very expensive, but gift is gratis What can I make with this? (A question for later).

A good day,
Leslie

[Linda Brandon]

Hi Leslie,

I've heard of painting on copper but haven't seen any paintings on brass. I hope somebody on the Forum comes forward with some instructions for you. In the meantime, it seems to me that American Artist had an article recently on painting on copper, and if I have time in the next few days I'll try to find it for you. Thanks for posting!

Best regards,
Linda

[Leslie Bohoss]

Hello !

Just found some material at: http://www.mauigateway.com/~donjusko...ranslucida.htm

Very interesting stuff! But he said nothing about details. I know brass is a mix from copper and something other but surface (porousity etc.) is the same.

I hope those technique-genius-guys (Marvin M. & Michael G. etc.) have had some experience with this.

Sincerely.

[Margaret Port]

Hi Leslie

In the techniques section of this forum Michelle Rushworth posted a question about painting on copper.

Meanwhile, I used to work a lot on copper and I think you treat it like any other support. Make sure it has no oil on it, prime it with a paint that sticks to metal and then gesso it with several coats. If you use a solvent based primer, you will need to use an oil based gesso and then paint only with oils.

Hope this helps.

[Michael Georges]

Leslie:

You can certainly paint on the copper plates. There are two schools of process for painting on copper.

Both involve thouroughly cleaning the copper plate first with a copper cleaner like Bon Ami or steel wool to remove any oils or tarnish from the surface and get you down to the nice brushed metal.

Mechanical Bond

Because the copper is so very smooth, you need to rely on a combination of mechanical bond plus the chemical bond to make the paint adhere long term to the copper. A mechanical bond means that you scratch or abraid the surface so the paint laid over has nooks and crannys to dig into. The chemical bond will come from using resin in your medium - resin acts a lot like a very strong glue. The resin part is optional, but it will help if you use it.

The first method lets you paint directly on the bare copper and uses garlic as the ground, yes, garlic. Garlic is acidic and the juice from the garlic will eat into the copper etching it and helping to create that mechanical bond. You mince a bunch of fresh garlic up and wrap it in a cheesecloth and make a little bag out of it. You then mash the garlic with your fingers so the juice begins penetrating the bag. You will ponce your surface with the garlic juice and leave it on. When it is dry, you can paint on it with regular oils. It may help to use a medium that has some resin in it - something like venice turpentine or canada balsam. I like 1 part canada balsam to 2 parts stand oil to 1 part oil of spike lavender or good turpentine.

The second method involves using a traditional oil ground of either lead white or zinc white or a combination of the two. You can add one or more coats and paint as normal. Some recommend letting the primed panel sit for at least 3 months before painting on it. This method mostly or completely obscures the copper - I think that if you are going to paint on copper, don't you want it to show through in places? You will certainly get a very smooth surface with either method.

Hope that helps!

[Leslie Bohoss]

Hi,

Thank you, Margaret and Michael! It seems to be a simple procedure.

This is really good news, then I can get more metal sheets. The standard is 1m x 2m. After cutting, they have always extras of them. More small pieces, probably for miniatures.

I tried with Venetian Turpentine and Copal (Kremer-shop is 10 min. from here). They make a thin film, but very strong (copal) and dry immediately! Too speedy.

Shall there be cracks? I see, copal is a very tricky thing. I think to add a little oil (walnut or linen) to make it slower.

Thank you all!

Leslie

[Timothy C. Tyler]

You forgot to add an essential hint, when you're done, paint generous amounts of oil of cloves and/or lilac to the backside (unpainted side)and frame to overcome the garlic. Furthermore, if your client base is comprised even moderately by vampires you may experience a marked drop in sales.