Brush brands

[Paul Foxton]

Here's another vote for the Monarchs, I use the filberts mostly. They are a synthetic version of mongoose brushes, mongoose hair being used for exactly the properties you describe Alex, more springy than a sable but softer than a hog. Apparently mongoose is an endangered species now so W&N came up with a synthetic equivalent.

I did track down some real mongoose hair brushes at Cornelissen's - http://www.cornelissen.co.uk - and, although I like them too, they're generally shorter than the monarchs. I feel a bit guilty about the mongooses (mongeese?) too.

Otherwise, I've found Pro Arte to be not worth bothering with, likewise Cirrus sables. Cornelissen do their own sables and hogs along with Roberson brushes of both types, all of which I've found to be very good, they keep their shape and don't loose hairs.

[Julie Deane]

Even Trekell isn't perfect. I bought a batch of sables from them a few years ago, and one of them fell off the handle - the whole thing! I patched it up with hot glue, cause it wasn't worth sending back for a replacement. Most of them have been fine, though.

Ruby Satin brushes are also very nice - for the same reason given as the Monarchs.

[Richard Bingham]

Originally Posted by Julie Deane

Even Trekell isn't perfect . . .

Gosh, I hope I didn't give the impression I thought they were. Truth is, thebest brushes now available are a sorry lot compared to what was available even 20 years ago.

I'll pass along these tips for brush care, knowing some may disagree, and others will have their own "cures".

1. After a painting session, thoroughly rinse your brushes in kerosene . Yeah, it stinks. It's also a mild solvent that is the most penetrating, and is excellent for dissolving the oils, resins and varnishes commonly used in oil painting. MS, OMS are OK, but not as penetrating, beware harsh solvents like lacquer thinner, acetone, or "hotter" solvents such as xylene or commercial reducers.

2. Immediately wash your brushes in tepid water with a good castile soap. Kirk's, or Ivory are good, I like Fels-Naptha. Some of the "special" brush soaps sold by art supply makers are also very good, especially SP's "Ugly Dog".

3. Work lather into the heel of the brush. The best way is to grab the tip of the brush hairs, and gently rotate the ferrule. This cleans paint and residues from the heel of the brush, where buildup eventually ends up splaying the hairs and ruining the action.

4. Squeeze the water from the brush, and use a thick, pasty conditioner, the kind they advertise on TV for beautiful, lustrous hair and healing split ends, and re-shape the brush to its original form.

5. Put the brushes in a jar or vase bristles-up to air-dry.

Bill whitaker advised the use of hair conditioners at his workshop in Scottsdale last April, and since then, I've found it to be really, really good for my brushes. Naturally, conditioner isn't going to do synthetic hair any good . . .

[Julie Deane]

That's okay, Richard. That's not what I meant.

Escoda brushes are luscious too and appear to be of very high quality. Wish I could afford more of them.

[Sharon Knettell]

Richard,

Thank-you again for your valuable technical information. You are a gem.

However you make me feel guilty about how I treat my brushes, I should be brought up on cruelty charges.

I am also a brush junkie. There are brushes you have not mentioned. The Raphaels.

They have a series 8772 filbert brush, which they call Kevrin. I think it is mongoose, whatever. It is not as soft as a sable, which is too floppy, and not as rough as a bristle. It can make quite a sharp edge and is really great for the more delicate facial areas. They are quite reasonable as well.

The second brush in my repertoire is the fabulous bristle series 3577. It is a short filbert. It is a straightened bristle, no curves on the end. It gives you great control on the larger areas.

For more swishy areas, I love the 3577, also a straightened bristle filbert but longer. It also has great control, but filled with paint it is great for those dashing and virtuoso effects we long for.

They are great and reliable workhorses.

I get them at the www.italianartstore.com

[Marcus Lim]

I was just wondering if anyone use the "Ferrari of paintbrushes" - the Da Vinci brand brushes? I came across them while travelling Down Under, and they cost a whopping 50 bucks for a large size 12 brush!
I wonder if they are really as good as the price hyped up to be...

[Gary Hoff]

I got similar information as Michelle did from Bill Whitaker years ago, and I've happily used Trekkel sables. The bristle brushes I've had from them are serviceable but tend to deform rather more than I'd expect.

In my experience Silver Brush makes good bristles--I've been using those for perhaps 5 years and have never had a problem with splaying, loss of hairs, or deformity. But I hasten to add that I've not purchased new bristles from them in a long while. Instead I've used their Ruby Satin line of synthetics--they're smooth to use, easier to clean than natural hair, and wear down very slowly.

Dunno much about da Vinci or Raphael brushes.

I was taught the same brush care tips as Rich was, btw.