Successfully stretching pre-primed linen.

[Michele Rushworth]

Regarding a drying spray, I usually will use plain tap water after stretching a canvas (linen) and then allow the water to dry. When it dries it reoves any wrinkles.

I don't think this is advisable. The water can have an impact on the linen, but more importantly can harm the adhesion of the gesso/lead white/etc that is on the other side of it.

[Richard Bingham]

Garth, many thanks for posting this with such care for the photos. A picture is truly worth 1,000 words!

A couple of things, no doubt it depends on what the makers recommend, but in the past, the "dust" that's apparent on the surface of rolled pre-primed linen was likely to be talc, applied as a precaution against fresh primed surfaces sticking in a new roll. It's a good idea to wipe down the surface with a clean rag dampened with denatured alcohol after stretching. You still want to wash your hands, though!

A word about those pricey copper-plated tacks: They look nice, and give you the feeling you've gone the extra mile, but the truth is they are actually less resistant to rust than common blued upholstery tacks. The reason is, there are two processes for electroplating with copper. One, which deposits a thick enough coating to prevent corrosion requires an acid electrolyte which immediately attacks steel. The other process uses a cyanide electrolyte solution which does not attack ferrous metals, but deposits a mere "wash coat" of copper only a molecule thick, just enough to enable steel parts to withstand the acid electrolyte until a significant layer of copper is built up. Guess which single method is used on these tacks?

A few years ago, I ordered a run of solid brass tacks at a stateside mill . . . they cost less than the "art store" copper-plated variety, and were sharper, and harder.

[John Reidy]

Michele,

Thanks for the heads up regarding the water. I use the water sparingly in a spray bottle, not to the point of run-off. Plus I only do it on those pesky wrinkles that I hope I won't have to deal with (with the exception of my related story) using your's and Garth's method of tacking the corners.

Thanks again.

[Julie Deane]

Garth,

I'm resurrecting your post to thank you for it. I've had such trouble in the past with wrinkles in the canvas. I've used your method, and it works very well.

In my case, I think part of my problem was that I was pulling too tight from the get-go. This time I stretched the canvas with a light pull, then after it was in place and wrinkle-free, went back, took the staples out in small sections at a time and re-stretched as I went, working from side to side as originally. I was able to pull the canvas even tighter this way, with not a wrinkle to be seen. It seemed to me that the (linen double-primed) canvas relaxed a bit after sitting for a while in-between stretching sessions.

[Michele Rushworth]

It seemed to me that the (linen double-primed) canvas relaxed a bit after sitting for a while in-between stretching sessions.

This happens to me, too. Now, before I deliver a painting I restretch the canvas and make it just a bit tighter. I've had canvases get all saggy within a few months of delivery and I don't want that to happen again.