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05-26-2005, 02:07 AM
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#11
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Juried Member
Joined: Jan 2005
Location: manila & california
Posts: 35
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Richard,
I did say glaze but I didn't mean it as painting less apint and more medium but applying a second time around with enough amount of paint. When I paint, I usually take the advice of Morgan Weistling. He emailed me not to use medium as possible because it makes less the tinting power of the paint. I have read also an article from Richard Schmid in the "Artist's Magazine" that the secret on his painting is by not using medium at all. We all know he's known for his ala prima technique. I tried their advice but didn't able to satisfy my works. There's usually something missing, mostly, the juciness of the painting and the power to create good effects.
Lately, I discovered the technique that was shared by some artist in the "International Artist Magazine". It was the technique that you have shared before which is applying a painting medium on the canvas first before painting rather than applying it on the paint. I do this technique and find it alright except when it was dry I get frustrated with the result by not achieving those quality I see in the gallery (especially the brightness and brilliance of a painting that is why i post here asking that technique.)
You said that in glazing, if you apply this it would rather get dry quicker. This I don't understand. I thought that applying more medium would prevent the top layer from getting dry. Can you explain this to me a lil further?
All the information that you shared really helped me alot that's why I am now in the process of experimenting. I am now looking for tiny bottles wherein I can put my mixture of medium in different amount of oil and turp.
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05-26-2005, 02:18 AM
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#12
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Juried Member
Joined: Jan 2005
Location: manila & california
Posts: 35
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Hey John,
I 'd love to buy and test this neo megilp made by gamblin but there's no product yet of Gamblin here in my hometown in Manila. The only available products here are those from Winsor&Newton, Lefranc, Grumbacher and Talens. Do you have any idea if there is a counterpart of Neo Melgilp in other brands?
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05-26-2005, 08:48 PM
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#13
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Juried Member FT Professional
Joined: Jul 2001
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 134
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Xander,
I agree with using Neo Meglip. For years I used Liquin and was very happy with it. Then last year I got a sample of Neo Meglip and I loved it. It is now my medium of choice, and really should be tried if you can get a hold of some. Perhaps you can contact Gamblin about getting their products in Manila. Their website is www.gamblincolors.com. At the very least maybe if you explain your situation they would be willing to ship you some.
Mary
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05-26-2005, 08:53 PM
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#14
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Associate Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 118
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I was also going to suggest going to the Gamblin website. I know they talk about it there. I should mention that now that I'm seeing the results as paintings dry, I like it even better. Great handling when painting, and a wonderful look!
John C.
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05-27-2005, 05:08 AM
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#15
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Juried Member
Joined: Jan 2005
Location: manila & california
Posts: 35
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Mary,
Thanks for giving the website of gamblin. I e-mailed them already awhile ago after chcking the site. I also checked your website and I like your works. You are a great artist. your works are very inspiring.
John,
Thanks also for the info. If ever you know something about an alternative for neo megilp or a counterpart of its product please tell me so because Gamblin is not yet available here in Manila.
__________________
Xander
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05-27-2005, 08:58 AM
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#16
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Juried Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Location: 8543-dk Hornslet, Denmark
Posts: 1,642
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Xander,
I used to make my own painting media that was Black oil with addition of beeswax.
I boiled it myself. It has to be heated up to 250 degrees Celsius. That is when dark smoke comes from it. So this is an OUT-door job.
The recipe:
10 parts Raw Linseed Oil
2 parts Bees wax
1/16 part Lead Oxide (Litharge, PBO, Lead Powder)
Good luck if you dare,
Allan
Ps. I liked it very much and may try it again for portraits.
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05-27-2005, 09:16 AM
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#17
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Associate Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Location: Germany
Posts: 204
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Allan
Well, it seems it is a good one. Lead causes drying and wax the satin-enamel surface.
Did you using it for glazing too? If I would get blackoil from Kremer, should I melt only my beewax into the blackoil? I have no clue how Kremer mixes its blackoil. I've used it for Maroger only.
Is your wax bleached or nature? Kremer has both.
thanks
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05-27-2005, 05:04 PM
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#18
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Juried Member
Joined: Jan 2005
Location: manila & california
Posts: 35
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Allan,
Thanks for that one. I haven't tried cooking my medium before but I'll try to do that one of this day. By the way, is there any other formula besides that one? I don't think I can find any lead oxide here in Manila. Is there an alternative? And is that formula really cool? does it really make your work bright and brilliant in appearance? What about yellowing in the future?
___________
Xander
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05-27-2005, 06:11 PM
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#19
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Juried Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Location: 8543-dk Hornslet, Denmark
Posts: 1,642
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Xander,
It
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05-28-2005, 01:56 AM
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#20
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Juried Member
Joined: Jan 2005
Location: manila & california
Posts: 35
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Allan,
Lead oxide at a pharmacist? You mean I can buy any of those in a pharmacy and not in a hardware store? I will do that cooking as soon I complete the ingredients. How about beezwax? where does it usually sell? I tried asking the hardware near me but they only got boiled linseed oil.
You know what? I can't wait to complete these ingredients to start mixing my own medium. I'm pretty excited about it.
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