Fast drying Lead white and Mars black

Eric Braks · 01-02-2003, 07:28 PM

Hello, all.

I'm intending to go out and purchase Lead white and Mars black to produce a fast drying underpainting in the verdaccio method. These I will mix with a fast drying olive green.

My question is this: I'm aware that different paint manufacturers mix their pigments in different vehicles. Should I be wary of the vehicle used in this case, or will any version of the above pigments dry quickly?

Thanks for the help,

Regards,
Eric.

Linda Ciallelo · 01-02-2003, 10:29 PM

Paint that is ground in linseed oil will dry more quickly than paint that has been ground in walnut oil. I have not experimented with paints that have been ground in other oils. Doaks is ground in walnut oil and Williamsburg and Old Holland are ground in Linseed oil. I think that most paints are ground in linseed oil.

Michael Georges · 01-02-2003, 10:45 PM

I might recommend that you consider adding Chromium Oxide Green to your black and white to make a better gray-green tone. Mars and white will make a bluer gray rather than a green-gray.

I mix COG and Mars Black 50/50 to make a value 2 green that I then darken with black to create value 1 and lighten with Flake White to make values 3-9.

Michele Rushworth · 01-02-2003, 11:57 PM

Many whites are ground in poppyseed oil which will not only dry more slowly than linseed but which has less tendency to yellow. However, paints ground in poppyseed oil have a greater tendency to crack (according to Mayer).

Michael Georges · 01-03-2003, 12:30 AM

Regardless of the vehicle the paint is ground in, the lead in the white will speed the drying. If you use no medium at all it should be touch dry overnight to a day and a half. If you use medium, then it may vary depending on the medium, it's drying properties, etc.

Eric Braks · 01-03-2003, 03:34 AM

Thanks all. Yes I intend to do a relatively thick [but not impasto] underpainting to cover the small amount of canvas texture.

I have a charcoal drawing on canvas which I will soon fix wth spray fixative. I thought then to do the vedaccio underpainting followed by the colour finishings.

I'll attach a pic, and yes I think I'll have to develop a face for the girl!

Thanks again, regards -e.

Timothy C. Tyler · 01-20-2003, 11:43 AM

I like your drawing. I think the main thing is that your underpainting is more lean that what follows. I understand it matters not which type of oil is in the paint but rather how much oil you add (in which amounts) that may give problems later. I'd say use only turps to thin and no medium at all in the underpainting. As far as the oils in the paints, many of us use several brands at once with several types of oils intermixed. Other artists will use one oil (as a medium) while the oil in the tube of paint is different as well. For underpainting-staying lean is the big concern. You can always slow or speed up drying time other ways.

Eric Braks · 01-20-2003, 03:04 PM

Thanks, everyone.

It turned out that I purchased a 150mm tube of Flake white [it's heavy], but it took as long to dry as my titanium and zinc paints. Also, the Mars Black I bought didn't seem to dry especially quickly. Each of these tested straight out of the tube.

Perhaps I should do the test again someday. For now, I'll put it down to experience that you have to test for yourself.

I've proceeded using a fast drying 'Underpainting White' by Art Spectrum [Australian Brand].

Regards from down Under!
Eric