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04-30-2007, 10:43 AM
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#31
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SOG Member '02 Finalist, PSA '01 Merit Award, PSA '99 Finalist, PSA
Joined: Jul 2001
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 819
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Richard--
I welcome any and all misattributions that make me look smarter and more knowledgeable than I am.
__________________
TomEdgerton.com
"The dream drives the action."
--Thomas Berry, 1999
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04-30-2007, 12:36 PM
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#32
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Juried Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Location: S
Posts: 16
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Thanks for the great tip Sharon. I will read the post.
Unfortunally, i
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04-30-2007, 04:19 PM
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#33
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Juried Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Location: S
Posts: 16
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Sharon, thank you very much for your excellent tips and information.
I really appreciate that.
Alex
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05-01-2007, 12:41 AM
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#34
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Juried Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 1,734
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharon Knettell
A: Purchase a Dibond, Alumalite, or Econolite panel. Signmakers have them. He recommends Alumalite or Econolite as they have fluted plastic cores are cheaper ($60 a 4'x9') panel and lighter.
B: Cut or have panel cut to size.
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AHA!
I have a piece of Alumalite as we speak. I had it cut in half by my neighbor who is building a small airplane in his garage. (It's nice to have people like this in the neighborhood.) I had thought one was supposed to rough up the Alumalite before applying an adhesive but it sounds like it's not necessary.
I wil post my results as soon as I get around to doing this. Thanks again, Sharon!
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05-08-2007, 03:20 AM
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#35
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Juried Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Location: Byron Bay, Australia
Posts: 81
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Sharon, once again i am pricking up my ears at your words.
Your mention of Dorland's wax medium had me google & buy some.
Alas - any idea how to make a "thin" layer.? Does one dilute it with something.?
This has come at an appropriate time for me as i am very dissatisfied with my retouch varnish (damar) as a finish for gallery presence. I am however happy with the damar final varnish - but who can wait.?!!
Any info regarding this would be appreciated. Perhaps it should be in a separate thread. Please feel free to move it if necessary.
thank you
tricia
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06-13-2007, 02:45 PM
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#36
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SOG Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 91
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Hey Sharon, have you thought about doing any of your large pastels on this polyester fabric? Steve
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06-13-2007, 04:35 PM
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#37
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Juried Member PT 5+ years
Joined: Nov 2001
Location: Stillwater, MN
Posts: 1,801
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Could you double-check that link while you're still here? It doesn't seem to go through.
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06-13-2007, 06:09 PM
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#38
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SOG Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 91
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I just did a google search on Ross Merrill and the pastel subtrate issue and couldn't find it the the 5 minutes I looked. I would be interested in reading it. Personally, I don't like using pastel on hard surfaces and I don't really like that material they call pastel cloth either. I think stretching polyester would a good solution. I don't know about the archivalness of working on a cloth. I do know there is a Manet pastel drawn on primed linen at the Metropolitan Museum that looks none the worse for wear.
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06-13-2007, 08:21 PM
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#39
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SOG Member '02 Finalist, PSA '01 Merit Award, PSA '99 Finalist, PSA
Joined: Jul 2001
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 819
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Somebody else to talk to, perhaps, is Jack Pardue. He's been doing pastels on what appears to be unprimed linen for years, but that's all I know about it. I've not actually seen his work "in the flesh."
__________________
TomEdgerton.com
"The dream drives the action."
--Thomas Berry, 1999
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06-14-2007, 03:30 PM
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#40
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SOG Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 91
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I'll have to try out your method. I've never used an airbrush. Is it possible to spray the matte finish with a very fine pumice as part of the mixture?
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