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10-28-2003, 11:01 PM
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#21
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Associate Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Location: Kapolei, HI
Posts: 171
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Turp
Tom,
Thank you for the information. I was aware of the toxicity of the turps, but I use very very little. A 1/4 oz in my palette cup at most at a time. I got the idea somewhere that spirits without smell were potentially worse because without being able to smell them I would not be aware of their build up in the air. I may have mentioned before that I've got C.O.P.D. and fumes are always on my mind. I will look further into the turp properties.
Thank you again.
__________________
ALWAYS REMEMBER Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take, but by
the moments that take our breath away.
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10-29-2003, 02:48 AM
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#22
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Guest
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OK, now I'm a little worried. All I want is 2 things: a non-toxic way to clean brushes nicely and quickly for my extremely lazy habits, and a lean medium to do my underpaintings. Is that too much to ask? Maybe I should try the vegetable oil for cleaning but I think I'm too lazy - that stuff goes rancid. When I'm done painting for the day... I'm done. More labor is unlikely.
What do you think - Turpenoid natural to do the brushes and Gamsol + LS for an underpainting? I'm not adverse to multiple substances. I keep my turp/linseed oil in a closed baby food jar so I'm not worried about mistaking it for a food substance. Yet, the kids are in the studio at least once a day so I like to keep things as non-toxic as possible, and I like to launder my rags.
I agree, I take the odorless stuff as extra dangerous because I'm not even aware we're inhaling it.
Lisa
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10-29-2003, 05:10 AM
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#23
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Juried Member FT Professional 10+ yrs.
Joined: Oct 2003
Location: Bella Vista, AR
Posts: 25
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Stanka, not Linda
Linda -
I'm the confused one, I was talking to Stanka. The burnt smell and ashes we've had in Southern California for days are getting to me. Sorry to confuse you.
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10-29-2003, 05:20 AM
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#24
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Juried Member FT Professional 10+ yrs.
Joined: Oct 2003
Location: Bella Vista, AR
Posts: 25
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Lisa,
I use paper towels so I can simply dispose and take the trash out daily. My habit is I wipe paint off my brush, then swish it in my bucket of turpenoid which has a tight lid in between use (I know it takes time, but it's an inconvenience I shoud try to afford). Then after each session, for final brush cleaning I use lava soap (bar) which hasn't let me down yet. I lay my brushes flat to dry overnight.
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10-29-2003, 08:29 AM
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#25
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SOG Member '02 Finalist, PSA '01 Merit Award, PSA '99 Finalist, PSA
Joined: Jul 2001
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 819
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One last post on this, and I'll step aside, I promise.
Everyone should remember that inhaled fumes are not the only issue. There is also the factor of absorption through the skin. Some of these things are absorbed that way, and some are not. That should be researched also, when choosing what to use.
"Let's be careful out there."
__________________
TomEdgerton.com
"The dream drives the action."
--Thomas Berry, 1999
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10-29-2003, 11:12 AM
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#26
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SOG Member FT Professional
Joined: Sep 2001
Location: Cleveland Heights, OH
Posts: 184
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Thanks Chris for checking with Mr. Gamblin. It was very helpful.
Erika, I knew you were talking to me. Liquin fumes helps me understand such communication. Speaking of..I'm going to try M. Graham walnut oil. They have an alkyd as well for my 'overnight-change-the-thing' needs. I've been having headaches lately that seem to be pointing toward the studio as a source. With winter coming, I don't feel like painting with fans and open windows in Cleveland. Wish me well. I may go into Liquin withdrawal..
Wishing you all safe painting!
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10-29-2003, 11:55 AM
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#27
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SOG Member FT Professional '04 Merit Award PSA '04 Best Portfolio PSA '03 Honors Artists Magazine '01 Second Prize ASOPA Perm. Collection- Ntl. Portrait Gallery Perm. Collection- Met Leads Workshops
Joined: May 2002
Location: Great Neck, NY
Posts: 1,093
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Oil you need is love
I use the M Grahm Walnut Oil to clean my brushes at the end of the day. They suggest using two containers containing their oil, one for an initial clean and wipe (repeat until all residue is gone) and the second for a final dip and wipe. I use brush cleaning canisters with an airtight lid and a screen halfway down. They say further treatment isn't nesessary if you're painting the next day but I always follow with Murphy's Oil Soap.
In my experience their walnut oil is more effective than using a vegetable oil from the supermarket or healthfood store. It seems thinner and cleans more easily. Also the paint sediment falls to the bottom of the canister more readily so the oil lasts longer and I can get more cleaning sessions out of it..
And best of all my studio is odor free and my brushes look like new.
I liked the M Graham Walnut Oil Alkyd Medium the best of all the Alkyd Mediums but it still destroyed my brushes. I find that linseed oil and thinner drys at almost the same speed.
The Gamsol is not odorless like some thinners it is LOW odor. The reason for this is because the evaporation rate is much slower than turpentine, therefore if you had an equal amount of both, the Gamsol would release far less fumes. Out of scent out of mind does not a safe studio make.
The fumes let you know if you're being exposed to toxins. Good health is the most important tool in the painter's arsenal.
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10-29-2003, 01:49 PM
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#28
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Associate Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Location: Kapolei, HI
Posts: 171
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M.Graham
Marvin,
Thanks for the input. I posted in another place, that I had just received samples from M.Graham. The info on using Walnut oil for clean-up was interesting. I have been using, like Lisa, Turpenoid Natural. My post above about Turp and Stand Oil was about what goes on my painting, not what I use for clean up. But I'm wandering now. Anyway, I tried the sample for clean up, and like you, I found I liked a soapy wash after. I'm in the middle of a simple still life using Graham's pigments and I must say, the colors are vibrant. Ive gotten some feedback on this WIP on another site and it was all good comments about the color. The product is looser than most so mediums have not been needed so far.
__________________
ALWAYS REMEMBER Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take, but by
the moments that take our breath away.
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10-29-2003, 01:57 PM
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#29
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SOG Member FT Professional
Joined: Sep 2001
Location: Cleveland Heights, OH
Posts: 184
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Thanks Marvin for your input.
I don't know, my brushes seem fine. I wear them out because of my ferocious attacking of the canvas. Poor things eventually beg to be retired.
Weren't you using neo-meglip? what happened?
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10-29-2003, 11:55 PM
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#30
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SOG Member FT Professional '04 Merit Award PSA '04 Best Portfolio PSA '03 Honors Artists Magazine '01 Second Prize ASOPA Perm. Collection- Ntl. Portrait Gallery Perm. Collection- Met Leads Workshops
Joined: May 2002
Location: Great Neck, NY
Posts: 1,093
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Stanka,
First of all it ruined my brushes. Also, I have discovered that there are many unanswered questions concerning the long term effects of alkyd resins.
I found a technical journal published by the National Gallery in London. This particular issue dealt with the analysis of works created by Van Dyke and Rubens. Using the most technically sophisticated scientific techniques conservators examined the works of these two great artists. They discovered that the only medium present was linseed oil.
In the vast majority of paintings painted before the 18th century analysis has found nothing other than vegetable oils in the paint film. These paintings have held up far better than paintings painted hundreds of years later that used more sophisticated combinations including resins, black oil or what have you.
It is always possible that at some point in the future scientists will invent a test that may discover the presence of additional additives but until then I'm sticking with my linseed oil.
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