Final varnish - matte or gloss

[Tom Edgerton]

Thanks, Marvin, I'll try it.

Winsor and Newton directs us to slightly heat their matte varnish to disperse the wax well within the varnish. I put my mixtures in a plastic bottle I got from the drug store, and heat it gradually and carefully on medium--not high--in the microwave, with the cap loose so the bottle doesn't explode, shaking occasionally. In a minute or two, I can see through to the other side of the bottle and the varnish is completely clear. WARM it slightly, rather than getting it really hot. It still dries to the same reduced sheen.

Maybe this would save your arm for another masterful painting.

Regards as always--TE

[Timothy C. Tyler]

I do what Marvin does-exactly-works great.

[Jean Kelly]

I recently picked up a satin spray varnish by Winsor Newton (recommended by th shop owner). Have I made a mistake with this? I planned to use it on a large formal portrait of a horse against a deep plum background. The background was done with numerous glazes over a brilliant gold toned canvas. It sings, as Steven put it earlier). I don't want to lose this brilliance, retouch varnish has show me what it will look like with a gloss finish and I like it. Has anyone used any spray-on satin finish? Should I just go get a gloss for when I'm ready to add the final varnish? I haven't varnished a piece yet.

Jean

[Timothy C. Tyler]

Any strong texture on a work will make it hard to read and photogragh if it's glossy-other than that it's personal taste.

[Terri Ficenec]

Have used the GamVar before, but this is my first attempt to cut the shine using the Bee's wax...

I took 2 tablespoons of Gamblin's Cold Wax Medium and made a smooth slurry with some of the Gamvar in a stainless steel canister... This had a consistency/color almost like milk. Then I poured this into the remaining GamVar in the (5.4 oz) resin mixing jar. What I've got in the jar now is not clear, but rather looks sort of dull white -- more opaque than translucent, let's call it heavy fog. When I swirl it, I see little pearlescent eddies/clouds spinning by. If I turn the jar on it's side and look at the film the varnish leaves on the inside of the glass, at first the film looks a smooth but slightly fogged, then it starts to look a little clearer but almost gritty with little pin pricks -- not sure if these are bubbles, or teeny little bits of undissolved wax?

Questions:
1) Is the 2 Tablespoons number correct for the 5.4 fl. oz. size of the GamVar, or is there another size?
2) Should the resulting Varnish w/Bee's Wax appear clear in the jar, or is it expected to be foggy?
3) If it's supposed to be clear:
a) Does this batch just need more time/stirring/agitation (how long should it take overall?), or
b) Did I ruin the batch somehow? (stainless jar? day too humid???)

I do plan to apply this varnish to a sample painting first, that I will use to show clients what the finish looks like, but I'd rather not mess up even that if this batch of varnish is not right. . .

Any help greatly appreciated!!
Thanks!

[Marvin Mattelson]

I'm assuming you mixed up the Gamvar solvent with the crystals first. Personally, I use glass to mix my mediums and varnishes, not metal. Seems cleaner. After everything is mixed up I shake for one hour all day and let it all sit for a day or two.

When you mix up the slurry you need to introduce the beeswax gradually. Otherwise it may not be properly emulsified. In the final concoction there will always be tiny bits of undissolved wax in the final mix, which I would call more opalescent than opaque. White gesso is opaque.

Definitely test it out on an old unimportant painting that's sufficiently dried (6 mos to 1 yr). If you don't like what you see after it dries (couple of hours), you can always remove the varnish with Gamsol (mineral spirits). Then if you feel it's too mattte, add more Gamvar.

[Allan Rahbek]

Terri,
I believe that Marvins advise is correct when followed from the start, that is gradually dissolving the wax by stirring.

But as you describe the look of it I think that the wax is not dissolved, so that is why you should follow Tom

[Terri Ficenec]

Marvin, Allan, thank you both so much for such timely and helpful responses!

Originally Posted by Marvin Mattelson

I'm assuming you mixed up the Gamvar solvent with the crystals first. . . .

When you mix up the slurry you need to introduce the beeswax gradually. Otherwise it may not be properly emulsified. In the final concoction there will always be tiny bits of undissolved wax in the final mix, which I would call more opalescent than opaque. White gesso is opaque.
. . .

Yes, I mixed up the Gamvar a couple of days ago... but perhaps I rushed the slurry mix and the wax isn't sufficiently emulsified? Or maybe the whole thing just needs a couple of days to settle now that the bee's wax is mixed in? Opalescent could maybe describe what I've got, but so could murky... Certainly not so opaque as white gesso! I'll give some more time and agitation, and make sure it's warm enough -- then see what it looks like on a painting!

And Marvin, I will use glass to make the slurry in next time--Thanks!

[Michele Rushworth]

Terri, I encourage you to email Gambin directly with your questions. I've found Robert Gamblin to be very responsive to queries.

[Michele Rushworth]

Terri, I encourage you to email Gambin directly with your questions. I've found Robert Gamblin to be very responsive to queries.