Do you size Masonite?

[Brenda Ellis]

Thanks, Jean for the link to that thread. I'll check it out...as long as it doesn't involve boiling any guerillas...

[Allan Rahbek]

Originally Posted by Sharon Knettell

Some artists like the luminosity of a gesso surface, some a naturally toned surface, but Max you are right, BOTH HAVE TO BE SIZED.

I have read that oil paint gets more transparent over time, so if we don

[Jen Reinstadler]

Originally Posted by Sharon Knettell

A while ago, I had a long talk with Micheal Harding the English paint maker. He said MDF board was the most stable paint surface available.

I had to look up MDF because I'd never heard of it. As appropriate as it may seem to an artist's forum, I rejected the "Manic Depression Fellowship" definition.

But according to the link below, Medium Density Fiberboard seems as dicey as other hardboard products. It mentions a continual gas-out of formaldehyde!

http://www.design-technology.org/mdf.htm

[Max Howard]

[QUOTE=Jen Reinstadler]

Originally Posted by Sharon Knettell

A while ago, I had a long talk with Micheal Harding the English paint maker. He said MDF board was the most stable paint surface available.QUOTE]



But according to the link below, Medium Density Fiberboard seems as dicey as other hardboard products.

http://www.design-technology.org/mdf.htm

I would say even more dicey. It absorbs water like a sponge, and is not nearly as durable as tempered hardboard. MDF uses resins which do in most cases contain formalehyde, whereas quality hardboard relies on the lignen present in the wood for adhesion.

[Brenda Ellis]

This may be of interest to some.
http://www.true-gesso-panels.com/2003_stp_article.htm

[Sharon Knettell]

Mr. Harding is a well respected maker of oil paints. I do not think he would suggest using MDF board if he did not consider it stable. His answer came as the result of my query as to what he thought was the most stable surface to work on today. I was decrying thje lack of properly prepared lead canvas on the market. He had no reason monetary or otherwise to suggest it to me other than he thought it was the most archival.

Here is another point of view on the subject: http://www.hudsonhighland.com/hardboardMDF.htm

[Allan Rahbek]

Originally Posted by Lisa Ober

You won't have the problem with those fine fibers on the sides (where the board was cut) soaking up moisture. .

It is important to cut the board from the right side to avoid loose fibers on the front side.
The side that is to be the front have to be upside when cutting it with a handheld saw so that the teeth will cut from the front and only rip up the fibers on the backside.
If you cut with a handheld circular saw it must be cut from the back of cause.

Allan

[Lisa Ober]

Yes, Allan, thanks. I forgot to mention that. Also a sharp blade is important. Dropping the stuff means you can kiss it goodbye as well.

Originally Posted by Sharon Knettell

A while ago, I had a long talk with Micheal Harding the English paint maker. He said MDF board was the most stable paint surface available. It really does not need any sizing, just paint on it. I use it for my large pastels. Just give it a light sanding to make the paint adhere better.

No gesso, no nothing. Simple and archival.

Sharon, is that true?! That is fantastic news. No problem with oils? I am shocked an amazed. I can't wait to try it! I have tons of it on hand from a local specialty hardwood store. They love it for cabinet making. I abhor priming surfaces with gesso. It reminds me of painting rooms which I also avoid at all costs.

Thanks for the hot tip!