 |
|
03-22-2006, 08:13 PM
|
#11
|
CAFE & BUSINESS MODERATOR SOG Member FT Professional
Joined: Jul 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 3,460
|
I didn't mean that I expect the mineral spirits to be absorbed into the paint, I expect it to evaporate. I felt that putting on a layer of 100% linseed would be too much oil. Adding the mineral spirits is just a way of thinning out the linseed.
|
|
|
03-23-2006, 02:14 PM
|
#12
|
Juried Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Blackfoot Id
Posts: 431
|
To elaborate, by definition and by use, linseed oil is, and has been considered a "varnish" since its use began. The purpose of a volatile thinner (MS) is literally to "reduce" the amount of material appied, so your 50/50 solution applied by way of "oiling out" is sound reasoning and practise as relates to applying less of the "varnish" material.
The intent of "oiling out" as I understand the process is not to saturate an absorbent layer with whatever amount of oil it might take on, but to appy the oil as as top-coat "varnish". Cut 50/50 with MS , it's most likely the "dry" passage will absorb the solution through and through, even into underpainting layers unless a barrier layer prevents this.
Oil is applied very sparingly to the surface (to be sure, one doesn't flood the surface nor apply it with a brush). A wee bit applied with the fingertips and massaged into a dry surface with the heel of the palm using enough friction to warm the oil and the painting, keeps oil on the surface and it's possible to apply even less sum total in this fashion than would result from applying a reduced mixture. Oiling out is one of those processes that's best demonstrated, it's difficult to explain in text.
The rationale for keeping an oil layer nearest the surface rather than permeating the paint layers is rooted in the "fat over lean" principle as it's understood for a layered approach to painting. Oil rich layers are found to yellow and darken over time, but a linseed oil film of itself will not necessarily yellow or darken unless subjected to extreme damp and darkness. Ambient daylight where paintings are hung for display is enough to keep paintings from darkening or yellowing.
|
|
|
03-23-2006, 02:26 PM
|
#13
|
CAFE & BUSINESS MODERATOR SOG Member FT Professional
Joined: Jul 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 3,460
|
Thanks for posting that, Richard. We all benefit from hearing about your experiences with various materials.
|
|
|
03-23-2006, 05:03 PM
|
#14
|
Juried Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Blackfoot Id
Posts: 431
|
Thank you, Michele. I am especially interested in materials and techniques, and realize the pitfalls of being pontifical. The possibilities of technique are so broad and the materials so varied, many methods and the materials they employ are interchangeable, supplying latitude for the accommodation of personal preferences. Basics of "sound" painting are relatively simple otherwise. It's my intention to be helpful, not to insist on my own preferences.
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing this Topic: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Topic Tools |
Search this Topic |
|
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
Similar Topics
|
Thread |
Topic Starter |
Forum |
Replies |
Last Post |
How do you glaze skin tones?
|
JJ Yang |
Techniques, Tips, and Tools |
1 |
05-06-2003 10:15 AM |
Glaze won't dry
|
Susan Kuban |
Paints, Mediums, Brushes & Grounds |
5 |
04-17-2003 02:38 AM |
Direct painting over a glaze layer?
|
Mai Ly |
Techniques, Tips, and Tools |
4 |
03-15-2003 01:47 PM |
Covino Glaze Medium over Liquin for portraits?
|
Minh Thong |
Paints, Mediums, Brushes & Grounds |
14 |
02-20-2002 02:02 PM |
Unifying Glaze
|
Michael Georges |
Techniques, Tips, and Tools |
3 |
12-03-2001 04:19 PM |
|
|
|
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:21 PM.
|