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08-13-2005, 06:17 PM
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#11
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Juried Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Location: 8543-dk Hornslet, Denmark
Posts: 1,642
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lisa Ober
You won't have the problem with those fine fibers on the sides (where the board was cut) soaking up moisture. .
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It is important to cut the board from the right side to avoid loose fibers on the front side.
The side that is to be the front have to be upside when cutting it with a handheld saw so that the teeth will cut from the front and only rip up the fibers on the backside.
If you cut with a handheld circular saw it must be cut from the back of cause.
Allan
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08-13-2005, 08:10 PM
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#12
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Juried Member FT Professional
Joined: Feb 2005
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 302
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Yes, Allan, thanks. I forgot to mention that. Also a sharp blade is important. Dropping the stuff means you can kiss it goodbye as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharon Knettell
A while ago, I had a long talk with Micheal Harding the English paint maker. He said MDF board was the most stable paint surface available. It really does not need any sizing, just paint on it. I use it for my large pastels. Just give it a light sanding to make the paint adhere better.
No gesso, no nothing. Simple and archival.
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Sharon, is that true?! That is fantastic news. No problem with oils? I am shocked an amazed. I can't wait to try it! I have tons of it on hand from a local specialty hardwood store. They love it for cabinet making. I abhor priming surfaces with gesso. It reminds me of painting rooms which I also avoid at all costs.
Thanks for the hot tip!
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08-13-2005, 08:23 PM
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#13
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Juried Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Location: 8543-dk Hornslet, Denmark
Posts: 1,642
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharon Knettell
It really does not need any sizing, just paint on it. I use it for my large pastels. Just give it a light sanding to make the paint adhere better.
No gesso, no nothing. Simple and archival.
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Sharon,
I guess that you mean, no gesso when used for pastels ?
When used for oil I would prefer a light painted ground of some kind. If it should be gesso or simply oil paint depends on the grade of absorbency you prefer.
Allan
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08-14-2005, 09:10 PM
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#14
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Approved Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,730
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Lisa,
The same stuff, just make sure it is MDF, not MDO. It is great stuff.
Actually, I left out a minor step, you do have to size it with rabbit skin glue, something you can cook on top of your stove. Ralph Mayer's book has the method.
That is right, NO GESSO for oils! The man is a wealth of information, I spent 2 1/2 hours with him on the phone,
You have to gesso for pastel because you need the grit.
Mr. Harding says it is one of the best and most stable supports around. Much better than any wood panel on the market and way better than canvas.
My cabinet maker suggest having it cradled in thicker widths of MDF, but you can use oak which is quite strong.
Allan, if you want want a lighter background, just use white paint over the glue.
Cheap, archival and easy.
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08-14-2005, 09:17 PM
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#15
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Juried Member FT Professional
Joined: Feb 2005
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 302
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Sharon, do you know why it has to be sized? Jus curious.
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08-14-2005, 09:25 PM
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#16
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Approved Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,730
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Lisa,
After 2 1/2 hours on the phone with him, my head was buzzing, and I did not ask.
Two reasons I suspect.
1) The acid from the oils would not be able to react with the substrate
2)The oils would not be easily absorbed by the MDF so would not look dead and dry.
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08-15-2005, 12:22 AM
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#17
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Associate Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 1,567
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I am only using MDF panels now to paint on. A carpenter makes them for me with cradled backs, then I rough up the surface and apply three layers of gesso, sanding in between coats. Then I tone it and I'm good to go. I love these panels, no bouncing when I paint and such a silky surface to work on. Next I'll be gluing linen on them and I think I'll really love that surface to paint on.
I haven't tried painting on them without gesso, maybe I'll try that next. It just doesn't seem right.
Jean
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08-15-2005, 08:53 AM
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#18
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Juried Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 263
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This is great news for me! I have a source of free mdf panels of various sizes.
As long as rabbit skin glue does not involve boiling any rabbits I will give it a go and see how this support works for me.
I don't know what "cradling" means but I suspect there's a post about it somewhere on this forum.
Thanks for the info, Sharon!
__________________
"In the empire of the senses, you're the queen of all you survey."--Sting
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08-15-2005, 09:36 AM
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#19
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Juried Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Northeast Georgia
Posts: 6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharon Knettell
It really does not need any sizing, just paint on it. I use it for my large pastels. Just give it a light sanding to make the paint adhere better.
No gesso, no nothing. Simple and archival.
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I wouldn't recommend doing that when using oils. Any natural fiber support be it MDF, Masonite, linen, or cotton will eventually suffer deterioration from the acids present in oil paint. The rule of thumb when using natural fiber supports is to size them with either a hide glue or acrylic emulsion.
Ooops! I missed post #14
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08-15-2005, 10:26 AM
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#20
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Approved Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,730
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Max,
It was a LONG conversation, and I was writing from memory, a bad choice on my part. I remembered the sizing part, to my horror, only when my head hit the pillow.
Some artists like the luminosity of a gesso surface, some a naturally toned surface, but Max you are right, BOTH HAVE TO BE SIZED.
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