How do you get from photo to canvas?

Richard Budig · 08-16-2005, 08:17 PM

Brenda:

That part about the model moving: I used to study with this old guy in Colorado. He would assing to one of the members of the class the task of keeping the model on pose. Thus, after every break, or at the beginning of the new day, the appointed person would allign the model according to HIS/HER canvas. It worked pretty well. This task fell to me a couple of times, and I noticed that it kept me a little sharper since I felt the responsibility of all the others who were painting. It solves the problem of having "too many cooks in the kitchen," so to speak. Actually, no one ever complained that the person in charge of the model's pose got it wrong.

As for folds of clothing: Andrew Loomis, a now deceased, but one of the best illustrators in the world, says that folds of cloth should further the story, and that there is no need to slavisly reproduce all the folds and wrinkles you see.

I have studied with several portrait painters, and all of them have said much the same thing -- Measure, measure, measure, and simplify, simplify, simplify.

Brenda Ellis · 08-16-2005, 09:47 PM

Thank you, Richard and Sharon.
I think I will look for a transparent ruler; that sounds like a good idea..much better than a pencil or brush handle.
I will have to be more assertive about getting the model back in the proper position. I often feel like I'd be nitpicking if I tried to get her/his head back in the exact position. But I will be a little more assertive. Usually the other artists do whole body paintings or drawings and I'm the only one who tends to focus on just the head or head and torso, so i guess that makes me the "pose monitor" if I want the head to be in the same position!
Thank you both for the good advice and wise words. Measure measure measure. And simplify those baroque, intestinally twisted folds of fabric!

Chris Saper · 08-16-2005, 10:22 PM

I have long used a gridded transparent ruler, but because it lets me see past the plumb line. That would be LITERALLY so.

The grid marks help in evaluating both horizontal and veritcal plumb lines. There is, however, a HUGE downside - because there is a tendency for students to want to use the numerical measurement on the ruler. Unfortunately this causes them to sometimes get sidetracked in minutia.

It's not the number, its the relationship.

Richard Budig · 08-17-2005, 07:53 AM

Brenda:

Another thing this Colorado guy used to do was to either put a piece of tape on a wall where the sitter had chosen to "look" during his/her pose, or he would tell them to pick a spot, a thing, or something through a window (not a car that could move) to fix their gaze on. This would help the model find his spot.

I think the thing is that it is important for artists, who are usually paying good money for this, to get their money's worth, and that no one should be offended if someone says something in the beginning of the session that sets out a few guidelines. Not about the money, but about the importance of an unchanging pose, and that so-and-so has been appointed the "pose monitor" for this sit.

My Colorado guy made light of it. Not a joke at anyone's expense. Just that it was important to keep a pose, and that today, this or that person was responsible for keepint the model on point. It was always "light" in nature. Never had a snit or a rant.

Brenda Ellis · 08-17-2005, 08:02 AM

Chris,
It seems to me I've seen transparent grids without numbers on them. Maybe I was dreaming. Even so, I will remember to focus on the relationships, not the numbers.

Richard,
The spot on the wall or wherever for the model to look at is a good idea. I will use that. Thank you!

Virgil Elliott · 09-27-2005, 12:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brenda Ellis

Chris,
It seems to me I've seen transparent grids without numbers on them. Maybe I was dreaming. Even so, I will remember to focus on the relationships, not the numbers.

A word of caution is in order regarding methods of transferring an image from photo to canvas. Do not proceed on the assumption that if it's true to the photo, it must therefore be also true to reality. That's a big fallacy. A lot of bad work is done because of that, with everything that is wrong with the photo being brought into the painting transfered verbatim, without being corrected. Cameras distort images, in addition to exaggerating value contrasts, missing important information, and giving too much detail where it isn't needed, among the many things an artist needs to understand about photography before it can be used to good effect as reference material. It takes a good eye to recognize photographic distortion, and the knowledge and the confidence to correct it and get it right come from much work from direct observation of the subject (not photos of the subject).

Virgil Elliott

April Phillips · 11-29-2005, 01:50 PM

I'm experimenting using a proportional divider to check points on my drawing for accuracy. I've found using the device saves me time and I'm happier with the final results.

Drafting quality proportional dividers seem to cost around $150. I tried making my own tool, but found it to be inaccurate. However I found a person on ebay (search: "proportional divider") who seems to always have 9" metal ones on sale for about $25. I ordered one and found the accuracy to be right on. The only drawback I have found is that the screw needs to be tightened by pliers, because hand tightening allows it to slip. For the price savings, I've found it worth a little extra trouble. The sellers name is "tedamr"

Allan Rahbek · 11-29-2005, 04:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by April Phillips

I'm experimenting using a proportional divider to check points on my drawing for accuracy. I've found using the device saves me time and I'm happier with the final results.

The only drawback I have found is that the screw needs to be tightened by pliers, because hand tightening allows it to slip. "

April,
I have made a proportional divider and experienced the same problem. You can see my divider at reply # 25.
The problem was solved by putting an extra iron ring on the one side and placing a rubber ring between the two. When i tighten the screws the rubber ring will apply a constant soft pressure and keep the divider in place.
Allan

Joan Breckwoldt · 11-29-2005, 08:14 PM

Don't laugh, but here is what I use to transfer measurements from my reference photo (which is taped up next to my canvas) to my canvas. If the chin I'm painting is looking a little long, I'll use this to measure and make sure. Or this tells me exactly how far it is from the inside of an eye to the edge of a face.

If I don't have a photo the exact size as the face on my canvas, I go to Kinko's and make a black and white xerox the exact size I want to paint it.

This simple device (I think it's called a compass) costs about 99 cents at the art supply store. I actually went in search of a device to measure and they were all too expensive, I can't remember since it's been a few months, but they were all $40 or $50 or more. That's when I found this one and it's worked great so far.

Maybe this will be an easy and economical solution for someone.

Joan

Note: This isn't any good for reducing the size of anything proportionally, it's just good for transferring direct measurements.