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02-27-2003, 12:12 AM
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#11
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PAINTING PORTRAITS FROM LIFE MODERATOR FT Professional
Joined: Nov 2001
Location: Loveland, CO
Posts: 846
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Below is my small wooden palette. It is 1/8th inch birch plywood that is stained with Burnt Sienna and sealed with Tung Oil (6 coats). It was traced from Bill Whitaker's palette of the same size.
I love the thing.
I clean it with mineral spirits and I don't let paint dry on it if I can help it. If I do, then Oil of Spike cleans it right up. I rub walnut oil into it after each session and polish it up. It gets more beautiful each day.
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02-27-2003, 12:30 AM
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#12
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Associate Member SoCal-ASOPA Founder FT Professional
Joined: Sep 2002
Location: Laguna Hills, CA
Posts: 1,395
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Hi Michael,
That is a beautiful palette. Thanks for the tip.
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02-27-2003, 01:02 AM
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#13
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CAFE & BUSINESS MODERATOR SOG Member FT Professional
Joined: Jul 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 3,460
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I scrape my palette off with a palette knife and when I really feel like getting all of the old paint off and starting with a clean slate, I sand it and then re-oil the sanded areas. I do that about once a week.
In between those times I keep my palette and brushes, with all the paint still on, wrapped in Saran Wrap in the freezer.
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02-27-2003, 09:24 AM
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#14
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Juried Member Guy who can draw a little
Joined: Dec 2002
Location: New Iberia, LA
Posts: 546
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Michael,
Another way to clean dried paint: Brush Cleaner, available at any home improvement store (or Wal Mart, I suppose). This is the best stuff to have around the house. Not just for artists, but anyone. It's great for removing paint, even from brushes that have dried, caked-on paint. I've used it to get creosote off my boat, and for removing silicone caulk. You'll wonder how you got along without it.
Unlike paint stripper, Brush cleaner is safe to handle, and won't destroy plastics.
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02-27-2003, 10:08 AM
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#15
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SOG Member FT Professional '04 Merit Award PSA '04 Best Portfolio PSA '03 Honors Artists Magazine '01 Second Prize ASOPA Perm. Collection- Ntl. Portrait Gallery Perm. Collection- Met Leads Workshops
Joined: May 2002
Location: Great Neck, NY
Posts: 1,093
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Easy clean
I discard all paint at the end of the day and mix fresh the following morning. Its much better to avoid "old" paint.
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02-27-2003, 02:48 PM
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#16
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Associate Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Location: Bellingham, WA
Posts: 166
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I got tired of fussing with mine and have been using a double layer of wax paper taped on the back.
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02-27-2003, 11:14 PM
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#18
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SOG Member Featured in Int'l Artist
Joined: Sep 2002
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 1,416
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Here is a discussion on all the different types of arm palettes: weighted palettes
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05-01-2003, 11:27 PM
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#19
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Inactive
Joined: Jan 2002
Location: Siloam Springs, AR
Posts: 911
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Couple of things
Firstly, try a real mahogany palette - not plywood for pure soulfulness. Second, there are two linens mentioned above here that you need to understand, both for sale thru Utrecht; Classens' primed and Utrecht primed-single or double primed...maybe that's 4 types huh? I've found all may offer you knots where smooth cheeks may ought to be. There are finer portrait linens available which you will need worry less about bumps and knots - I mean finer as a non-judgement term.
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05-02-2003, 07:44 AM
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#20
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Approved Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,730
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Tim,
I hate to be a downer but the soul of the rainforests is being raped for mahogany. The soul should be in the painting.
There are many Claessens, I am sure you must be referring to the 13DP and the 13DP. I get mine from New York Central Art, as they carry the 84" width. Actually they carry the best lines of canvas available anywhere and will custom prime and stretch.
www.nycentralart.com
Sincerely,
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