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11-29-2006, 06:23 PM
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#1
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Associate Member SoCal-ASOPA Founder FT Professional
Joined: Sep 2002
Location: Laguna Hills, CA
Posts: 1,395
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Oiling out
I need to find out if it is ok to carefully oil out with a brush, rather than a rag?
I only want to do this in the grisaille underpainting stages, especially if the painting is almost dry to the touch for the exception of a few spots.
As always your comments would be appreciated.
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08-10-2007, 12:31 PM
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#2
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Juried Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Location: Binghamton, NY
Posts: 247
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Hi Enzie, I too am wondering about "oiling out". I have heard so often that one isn't supposed to oil out, but recently I tried it and it works really well. What negative result are we avoiding by following that advice? I know that Odd Nerdrum oils out with raw umber. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Linda
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08-10-2007, 01:24 PM
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#3
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Associate Member SoCal-ASOPA Founder FT Professional
Joined: Sep 2002
Location: Laguna Hills, CA
Posts: 1,395
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Hi Linda,
I do not know of any negative aspects reagrding oiling out, except for inablility of paint to adhere if too much oil is used. The way I learned to do it is to drip a few drops all over the canvas, leaving roughly a fingers width between each drop. Then taking a soft rag you spread the oil all over the dry canvas making sure you covered all areas. Tilting the canvas helps to see missed spots.
Now this is the important part:
Making sure that your fingers are clean and oil free, you rub a finger tip gently on the canvas and look at it. If it looks like you just bathed in baby oil, then you have used too much oil and need to wipe it off with a dry/clean/unsaturated part of your cloth. The ideal is to have a very slight sheen on your finger. This way the the dark,sunken in areas come back to life and the new paint adheres just fine.
Hope that helps!
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08-11-2007, 09:25 AM
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#4
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Juried Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Location: Binghamton, NY
Posts: 247
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The way I have been doing it, is to just paint the oil onto a small area that you will be working in, and then wipe it off with a paper towel. I try to wipe it all off. Of course some will still be left on the painting. So I am not using my fingers at all. A soft cloth could be used to wipe the oil off, as well as a paper towel. It seems to help the painting have more depth and softer edges.
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08-12-2007, 10:51 PM
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#5
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Associate Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Location: Montesano, Washington
Posts: 236
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Enzie, in school they taught us to oil out with a brush. The medium we used was one part stand oil, one part damar varnish and three parts English distilled turp. If we got to a point where this wasn't working well enough, we could go to a one/one/one ratio. There always seemed to be a little bit of controversy and/or confusion over whether oiling out or using retouch was best. I tend to use retouch first, and then if that doesn't work well enough I go to oiling out with the 1/1/3 ratio. I wait as long as possible before I add anything to the painting process, and if I can avoid it, I do. That's just my preference, easier to manage the fat over lean that way. I've never tried glazing.
Linda, I would be concerned about fibers from a paper towel sticking to my painting. The only time I use paper towels on a painting is for wiping out mistakes in the lay-in process.
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08-14-2007, 10:54 AM
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#6
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Associate Member SoCal-ASOPA Founder FT Professional
Joined: Sep 2002
Location: Laguna Hills, CA
Posts: 1,395
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I have seen Alexei Antonov just pour oil on the dry canvas and use his hand. I would be too afraid to end up with way too much oil on the canvas. Great to hear the different techniques though!
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09-14-2007, 02:25 AM
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#7
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SOG Member FT Professional
Joined: Jun 2001
Location: Penngrove, CA
Posts: 122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enzie Shahmiri
I am using Marvin Mattelson's oiling out method, which requires that the painting is completely dry before continuing work. I need to find out if it is ok to carefully oil out with a brush, rather than a rag?
I only want to do this in the grisaille underpainting stages, especially if the painting is almost dry to the touch for the exception of a few spots.
The medium applied with a rag in between drying stages:
4 parts English Distilled Turp
1 part Stand Oil
As always your comments would be appreciated.
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Enzie,
For the best results, wait until the paint is dry before you try to work over it. I oil out with plain old cold-pressed linseed oil, scrubbed on thinly with a hog-bristle brush over the area to be painted into, and then I blot or rub off as much as will come off with a soft rag or paper towel. Only the tiniest amount of oil is needed to serve the purpose. The solvent in your medium will act on the paint that's already there, and if you're wiping, some of it is liable to come off. Oil paints don't need to have solvents in them. Solvents weaken the adhesive strength of the binding oil in the paint.
Virgil Elliott
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09-15-2007, 09:59 PM
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#8
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Associate Member SoCal-ASOPA Founder FT Professional
Joined: Sep 2002
Location: Laguna Hills, CA
Posts: 1,395
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Thanks Virgil! I do have another question for you. How bad is a drop of clove oil on a paint glob, to prevent drying out? I resorted to this because I just LOOVVVVEEE the smell of clove oil!
Well, actually I needed to stop the fast drying process during the heat wave here. But now in hindsight I am wondering how much that can affect the adherance effect of the paint.
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09-16-2007, 01:22 AM
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#9
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SOG Member FT Professional '04 Merit Award PSA '04 Best Portfolio PSA '03 Honors Artists Magazine '01 Second Prize ASOPA Perm. Collection- Ntl. Portrait Gallery Perm. Collection- Met Leads Workshops
Joined: May 2002
Location: Great Neck, NY
Posts: 1,093
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No turp, radio
Enzie,
I do not use the stand oil and turpentine mixture you attribute to me for the purposes of oiling out. If you recall, I used only cold pressed linseed oil, in the workshops you attended, when I oiled out my painting prior to scumbling.
I try my darnedest to avoid turpentine in the studio for toxicity reasons and I even use walnut oil for cleaning brushes so as to avoid the less dangerous (than turps) mineral spirits.
I do, however, add literally one drop of turpentine to one drop of linseed oil and 1/3 of a drop of clove oil to the paint I use to create my wash-in under-painting in the workshop.
What I said at the workshop was that I sometimes may add a very small amount of stand oil, thinned with turpentine, to the linseed oil, if the pure linseed oil beads up over the surface I want to unsink. This very rarely ever happens, by the way.
On another note, nothing good can result from adding clove oil to keep the piles of paint wet. It's my understanding that it can lead to darkening and, if painted over, cracking.
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09-16-2007, 11:32 AM
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#10
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Associate Member SoCal-ASOPA Founder FT Professional
Joined: Sep 2002
Location: Laguna Hills, CA
Posts: 1,395
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Dear Marvin,
Please accept my appology you are absolutely right!
I edited the initial post to avoid confusion.
Just as you said, I have been following this for the wash-in as well
Quote:
Add literally one drop of turpentine to one drop of linseed oil and 1/3 of a drop of clove oil to the paint I use to create my wash-in under-painting in the workshop.
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and strictly Lindseed oil for oiling out between dried painting stages.
Ahh, I hate aging it makes you say and do things that you later wonder about?! LOL
Thanks for the note on Clove Oil, I shall retire it and use it as potpourri!
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