How to gesso stretched raw linen?

[Linda Brandon]

Garth just posted good instructions on how to stretch preprimed linen.

Too late for me, though, because I've just committed myself to stretching raw linen and priming it myself.

Even though I think I know what I'm doing with this, I have never done this successfully (by that I mean "never well enough to make me 100% happy with the result"). Any tips?

I don't need to use PVA size underneath acrylic gesso, do I? (I have a big jar of Golden's Gesso.)

Alternatively, if I wanted to "lead prime" this linen, would I use the PVA size and then a couple of coats of tubed lead white paint? Sanding in between coats? Would I need a haz-mat uniform to protect myself from all the toxics I'm releasing (it's a pretty big canvas)?

[Garth Herrick]

Dear Linda,

I'm not a particular expert here so hopefully someone else will chime in. I had always used the rabbit skin glue method of sizing linen. You need a double boiler, measure carefully, and follw instructions, but it's not that hard to do.

The PVA solution should do the same job of sizing right out of the bottle. I bought a bottle of Gamblin's PVA size, but have not actually used it yet.

At any rate, let the canvas dry from the sizing before applying an oil ground.

If you apply the lead ground with a knife or large painting spatula, I don't see where a sanding of layers would be necessary. The knife should apply the ground smoothly enough.

Winsor and Newton alkyd primer is thixotropic, so any brushing settles into a nice smooth surface. It also dries overnight.

OK, some expert should chime in now!

Garth

[Sharon Knettell]

I am a pretty persnickety painter when it comes to preparations and materials, but I do think you deserve some kind of trophy for this Linda. Even the over referenced Sargent used rolls of preprimed.

I do know ONE thing about this, that you must gesso the sides as well, as they will disintegrate with time if left ungessoed.

I must see some pictures of you at work in the studio as your avatar reflects more a woman of glamour and leisure.

[Allan Rahbek]

Linda,

Just another little tip.

Before sizing a huge canvas it is vise to size the edges and let them dry first. This will prevent the linen fibers to drag the weave out of fashion along the stretchers.

Allan

[Carlos Ygoa]

Linda,

For what it's worth, another possible substitute to rabbitskin glue is refined carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC). I have used this in the past and if I am not mistaken, some brands of acrylic 'gesso" contain this ingredient. This comes in powder form and can be used in a 10 percent solution. Stir in water, allow to swell, stir again and apply to the canvas. The effect is very similar to the animal glue in that it stiffens the cloth, but unlike glue size ( I have read), it will not crack. It is flexible and resistant to the oils.

I have also used the alkyd primer mentioned above with good results.

I also prefer to prepare my own supports as this serves as a sort of warm-up to the work itself, aside from the advantage of controlling the surface one wants. But, I do have a problem with the cloth sticking to the stretcher (along the edges) when the glue size seeps through to the wood...the problem being of course if and when I have to remove from the stretcher to roll the canvas for sending off in a tube. Any suggestions?

Carlos

[Allan Rahbek]

Hi Carlos,

I used to hang a lot of wallpaper earlier when I was a house painter. Cellulose Glue mixed with Wheat Starch was the glue used for that.

I believe that you can avoid it sticking to the strechers by priming them with oil paint before mounting the linen.

Just a thought.

Allan