Stretching Linen

[Sandy Barnes]

I have read many different versions of stretching instructions and am getting confused.

I am using raw linen on 40" x 21" stretchers. There is a cross brace in the center of the longest side. I have seen versions where the staples are placed on the backs of the stretcher while others demonstrate the sides.

This is my first attempt and although I have read that cotton is easier to work with, this is my prefered ground (gotta learn sometime ) I also read that unprimed linen is easier to work with and therefore chose this route. My main questions are as follows: How tight should I initially stretch before priming? What type primer should I use?

Any help in this area will be much appreciated.

[Allan Rahbek]

Hi Sandy,

I usually stretch all my canvases. I use Belgium linen, cotton is too soft, I think.

Make sure the stretchers are at right angles. Cut the linen about 2" too big on all sides. Staple on the first side (not the back) with 3-4 staples(1 staple per 1") making sure that you follow the trend.

Then you fix the opposite side the same way while you hold it tight, not so much as a drumskin, but some. Next you fix the 2 other sides tightening such as the middle of the linen become stretched and flat. Make sure the corners stay at a right angle.

Proceed with 2-3 staples towards the corners, shifting sides all the time until you reach the corner. Cut the superfluous linen or fix it on the back as you please.

Linen must be glued with animal glue to prevent the oil paint from filling the fibres. Then you can paint with what ever you wish. Gesso, acrylic or anything homecooked.

[Michele Rushworth]

I find primed linen is much easier since I don't have to worry about what to prime it with, in what layers or sequence (rabbit-skin animal glue, archival lead primer and and all that). I don't have to sand in between the layers of lead-based primer or worry about getting lead dust from all the sanding into the air and into my lungs.

I also understand that after priming linen with that sort of stuff you have to wait weeks or months until it is cured enough to work on. (Perhaps someone who actually does that process can jump in here and clarify.)

I buy rolls of Claessen's 13 double primed linen (thanks for the recommendation, Sharon Knettel!) and I love the stuff. You may find the single primed is a little easier to stretch. I just slice off a piece and after 20 minutes with my staple gun I'm ready to paint.

I stretched a 26 x 40" canvas just the other day and it came out drum tight, with a perfectly smooth primed surface and, best of all, it's ready to paint on as soon as I put in the last staple.

[Sandy Barnes]

Thanks Alan and Michele,

I would have bought the primed linen had I not read that it is difficult to work with. Sadly, I have a giant roll of it now.

I have read that rabbit skin glue is only necessary if using an oil based primer. Is this correct? Can I just use acrylic primer and skip the sizing? I am begining a commission and cannot afford the time for all of these steps as well as a month-long curing wait.

[Allan Rahbek]

Sandy,

You CAN use only acrylic primer on your raw linen. Then you must prime it and sand it and prime again. When it is dry you must stretch it a little.

The idea of rabbit skin glue is to isolate the fibres from being impregnated with oils, whitch will cause it to stiffen and eventually crack.

Another advantage is that you can allways stretch the canvas if there should be a pressuremark, you just moist the backside and the linen will stretch again.

But I agree with Michele that if you are in doubt, or are too wealthy, you should buy a ready made canvas.

I usualy prepare 10, or so, canvasses at a time.

[Michele Rushworth]

I would actually avoid moistening the back side of a canvas or linen if it were me. I'd be concerned that it would cause the priming/painting layers to separate from the fabric.

[Garth Herrick]

Sandy,

Don't forget to use canvas pliers. This will save you from sore fingers and give you much more even tensioned, professional results. If you already use them, then sorry, you can disregard my post.

[ReNae Stueve]

Originally Posted by Sandy Barnes

I have read many different versions of stretching instructions and am getting confused.

I have seen versions where the staples are placed on the backs of the stretcher while others demonstrate the sides.

Sandy, I place my staples on the side. Well. I place the first 3 on the back, then stand my frame up and use the leverage of the pliers against the back edge and staple the alternating rotation as described on the sides including the side I started on. Then I remove the starter staples after my corners are done and trim off excess. I don't know if it's the right way, but it's what works for this lefty when trying to apply the leverage needed to get a tight fit with the pliers.

[Linda Nelson]

Hi,

I recently bought the stretching pliers recommended here (another thread under this section) and I LOVE them! They are so much easier to get a successful stretch job done, and it takes less strength to tighten the canvas thanks to a bar they add to the pliers which increase one's leverage.

I highly recommend them over what is available at the local art store.

here's the link
http://www.midcoast.com/~twnbrook/tbplier.html

[Sandy Barnes]

I am sorry, I misundrestood the word of "pliers" I thought it ment"wedge" the things you use for stretching the canvas.

There's another example of different instructions. I have read of those that use keys or wedges while others say to avoid them at all cost. I agree Alan, this is getting technical
Thanks for the tip Linda. I will search that thread and find the pliers. The pair I'm using does have the leveradge bar as well as a locking pin so you don't have to maintain a gorilla grip. However they cost only $8.00 (the only type available at Pearl) so I expect they will break during a crutial moment!