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Old 02-07-2002, 02:27 PM   #1
Jennifer Geary Jennifer Geary is offline
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Question about painting on panels




Okay, I have a question! can someone please explain to me the technique of painting on a panel? What type of panel is the best to use and how do you prepare it for painting? I want to try doing this, but need some help getting started. I know there are a few of you who paint on panel, like Juan, so any pointers would be great!

Thanks for your time!
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Old 04-25-2002, 10:12 PM   #2
Jim Beutler
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Hi Jennifer,

As far as I know, "panel" most commonly refers to masonite. I've read that only "untempered" masonite should be used. Most commonly, masonite is "tempered" or oil impregnated. Untempered may be a bit harder to find, but it is available at some lumber yards. Also, there are now prepared panels available (made by Ampersand, I think) that I think are merely acrylic gesso sprayed masonite panels and quite pricy for what they are. Someone recently told me that the tempered masonite sold today is now OK to use, as the oil in it is different than it used to be. I'd stick with the untempered, myself. Try using a fine paint roller to apply acrylic gesso to the board. I got one for a few dollars like one you'd use to paint walls but smaller and with a fine sponge roller. If you don't have tools available, the lumber yard will probably cut the 4'x8' sheet into pieces for you for free or for a small fee. Also, I imagine you could use any other sizing/priming method you prefer. Good luck, I've been meaning to get around to trying this for some time now!
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Old 04-26-2002, 07:11 AM   #3
Patt Legg Patt Legg is offline
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smile Using Masonite

Hi Jennifer,

I reviewed your question about Masonite. I am not a chemist or whatever it takes to be positive but I have used Masonite for years now (about 20). Until recently I used only untempered but agree with Jim on this one. I read that the tempered is now fine to paint upon because of the way they temper it and lack of the usualy oils.

As for technique to get it ready to paint upon it is a follows: Lightly sand with sandpaper first to develope tooth (place for the Gesso to grab hold). I then use Acrylic Gesso and I use a foam brush (found by the paint brushes in all paint departments) to apply a thin coat. I do this quickly and in one direction only, smoothing as I go. This will dry within minutes (approx. 15) depending on how thick you apply. I then sand with a very fine sandpaper (400 to 600 grit) I find it mostly in lumber places or where they sell car parts as it is used in finishing car painting or detailing).

I spritz or lightly spray water on it (very lightly as not to take off the gesso) and wet-sand with this 600 grit. I then coat with gesso again. Then sand again. I will do this at least 3 times and sometimes up to 7 or 8.

It will then be as slick as glass. I love this painting surface as I paint in great detail. I also would like to add this. Jim said that a lumber yard will cut it. In my findings--be very careful here. I am fortunate that my hubby cuts mine and has all the fine tooth saws and he is very careful to "square" the pieces perfectly as they need to fit exactly into your frame. Most lumber yards are hurried and cut to fit walls , etc. and first, are unaware that they need to perfectly square the pieces. You might try telling them of the perfection thing. If you have a friend or possibly cabinet makers or carpenters who posess a good table saw----this is your best bet.

Good luck and although this is lengthy, I hope this has given you an idea.

P. S. I also re-gesso some canvases with same technique to get a very fine tooth. Although, linen portrait canvases are great too.

Happy gessoing,
Patt
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Old 04-26-2002, 08:39 AM   #4
Jennifer Geary Jennifer Geary is offline
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Thanks Pat and Jim!! I thought I would never get an answer to that post! You have fired me up to go and buy some Masonite and try it out! My hubby can cut the wood for me, but I have to make sure that the sheets fit in my Escape! THAT could be a problem! Thanks for your detailed information! I appreciate it!
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Old 04-26-2002, 11:30 AM   #5
Patt Legg Patt Legg is offline
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You are very very welcome Jennifer. Glad your hubby can cut it. Here is one more hint. The Masonite panels come in 4x8 ft. You could have the lumber yard cut in half to get it into your vehicle. You will lose some of the different sizes due to that. What I mean is, I am very thrifty so is my hubby. He will figure to the last inch of how he can cut the panel i.e. four size 16x20's, two 18x24's, so on and so on and if there are any small pieces left, he will cut 5x7's or 8x10's . I like to do extreme large to the extreme small.

P.S. I am in the process of doing some miniature work 2"x 3" and so on.

Good Luck
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Old 04-26-2002, 11:43 AM   #6
Patt Legg Patt Legg is offline
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One more thing Jennifer. Of course your hubby will inform you of this I am sure, the Mesonite is simply pressed wood and will deteriate if wet so keep in very dry place.

Oh, and I too live in a keep up a 100 year old home. Fun huh?

Cheers
Patt
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Old 04-26-2002, 12:11 PM   #7
Jennifer Geary Jennifer Geary is offline
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Great idea, Patt! Any excuse for my husband to use his new wood tools is a plus to him! I am sure the guys at Lowes will chop it in half for me! I also noticed that at Lowes they have other types of wood paneling, I mean, they are about 4'x 4'...actual wood, not particle board. Have you tried that stuff? Also, do you need to seal the back of the masonite as well, just in case it gets wet after the painting is finished? (I want to go buy wood NOW, but I have 6 more hours of work left today...UGH! The torture!).

You have an old house, too? Mine is about 102 years old. We are having a ball ripping off ancient wallpaper and pulling out floors...but for some reason, painting and decorating a HOUSE is much harder on my brain than painting on a canvas! Why is that?! Maybe I should paint a picture of what I WANT my house to look like FIRST! LOL Oh, the possibilities!

Thanks for all your wonderful tips about the masonite!!!! By the way, is it expensive?.
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Old 04-26-2002, 06:51 PM   #8
Patt Legg Patt Legg is offline
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Masonite vs. wood

Jennifer,as for the wood paneling, I do not know for sure. My hubby has done cabinetry and fine wood work from real wood and personally I would fear real wood or wood paneling would warp in time. I also have read about this possibility. I will not use it but I know they did many years ago. A Masonite hardboard panel is primarily processed wood fiber. I have a printout from someone who wrote, "Tempered Masonite is much stronger and, once it is carefully sanded will provide a strong mechanical bond with the paint." And added, "I have panels that are over 30 years old which have gesso, egg tempera and embellished gold leaf." There is no sign of cracking or damage.

Price? I buy locally but Lowes has it too and I pay between $8 and $11 for a sheet, 4x8' sheet. I have a friend who uses it all the time and has for many years and her portraits, florals etc bring in excess of 4-6 thousand dollars.

One real good reason that I love it too is that it is so simple to frame. No worry about the depth of the rabbet. The Masonite is 1/8 in. or 1/4" thick and will fit into any rabbet depth very securely with offset clips.

Good Luck,
Patt
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Old 05-01-2002, 06:08 PM   #9
Michael Georges Michael Georges is offline
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Windberg-type Panel

A lot of good advice has already been posted, but I thought I would share my process for creating a slightly toothy surface that is very much like the old Windberg panels.

I use a gesso that has marble dust mixed in to it. That alone gives it a tooth, but the process is the key. I put 4 coats on thickly with a brush. I don't sand in between coats. I then wet sand the board completely smooth to remove the brush strokes. After sanding, the final coat of gesso is thinned with polymer medium mixed with water (50/50), and I add this mixture to gesso - 1/3 mix to 2/3 gesso. I apply it to the board with a smooth foam roller making sure it spreads evenly and rolling it out. No sanding is required for the final coat.

The surface is like very fine sand paper and is great for oils or charcoal.
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