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09-22-2003, 01:44 PM
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#1
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Associate Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Location: Germany
Posts: 204
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Painting on metal
Hello!
Yesterday, I started an underpainting (Ingres) on metal with Terre Ercolano (selfmade- paint, pigment from Kremer) and Tit. White.
But, the paints makes stripes and heaps up! You can see it (little) on the shiny parts hairs and right side, but it is over all. Is there a specific method of painting on metal? My self-made paints are good on canvas, but I get panels for nothing.
Thanks for the answers!
Cheers!
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10-10-2003, 08:44 AM
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#2
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Juried Member FT Painter Grand Prize & Best of Show, '03 Portrait Society of Canada
Joined: Nov 2001
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 106
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Leslie
Sorry, but I have a few questions first before I might be able to suggest any answers. Did you use a ground layer and/or imprimitura? It looks as though you did, but I would like to know for sure. If so, what kind of paint did you use for the ground (the best is lead white but titanium would do) and how long did it cure before you began your underpainting. Also, what sort of metal are you using?
Juan
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10-11-2003, 05:53 AM
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#3
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Associate Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Location: Germany
Posts: 204
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Hello,
This one is aluminium. I sanded with grit #400 then make it fat-free with alcohol. I used a thin layer white acrylic paint. After drying painted over with Titanium White (here, only restoration institute can buy/use Lead or Cremnitz White, since containing lead and the State made strong rules in ca. 2001) and a touch of my Terra ercolano.
Quote:
how long did it cure before you began your underpainting?
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Oh yes, I think too less. I did my thought in this direction too, perhaps this last layer (quasi-imprimatura) was not perfectly dried thoroughly and the underpainting (a bit! thinned! paint) could do it soluble. For me a new effect, came never at grounded linen or MDF, since are more absorbent as metal. Have you an other idea?
P.S. Although I found the picture not bad, of course the grooves are fatal for glazing.I sanded the underpainting to get smooth again. And will start new...
Many thanks and best wishes.
Leslie, the impatient patient
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10-11-2003, 09:37 AM
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#4
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Juried Member FT Painter Grand Prize & Best of Show, '03 Portrait Society of Canada
Joined: Nov 2001
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 106
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Leslie
From the description of your preparation, I cannot see anything there that would lead to the problems you are having. I have never painted on aluminum panels although I know it is a suitable surface. The few people whom I know that have used them, though, always glue cloth to the panels, so that is of no help. I am currently waiting to start a painting on a copper panel, myself, but that will be my first try at painting on metal of any kind. The lead white ground and campitura are curing right now. I'll certainly let you know whether I encounter the same problems you're having.
Too bad about the lack of availability of lead carbonate in Europe. The bureaucrats in most European countries are just too eager to embrace every possible regulation or guideline that is suggested to them when it comes to the "dangers" of art materials. Usually, I think of Europeans as far more enlightened than most of us here in North America, but in the case of artists' materials, there is a New Age Dark Age mentality, if you get my meaning.
Anyway, titanium white works fine.
Best of luck and sorry I can't be of any help.
Juan
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10-11-2003, 09:43 AM
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#5
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Juried Member FT Painter Grand Prize & Best of Show, '03 Portrait Society of Canada
Joined: Nov 2001
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 106
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One more thing!! I just noticed that you said you used a thin layer of acrylic PAINT not acrylic GESSO. Is that correct? If so, this could be the problem although I'm not certain of the mechanism. There is a school of thought that says you should not paint with oils over acrylic PAINT because it will not form a proper bond. If there is some truth to that, perhaps that is the root of the problem.
On an aluminum panel, you shouldn't need a primer other than a layer of white paint if desired because I don't not think that aluminum oxidizes. If it does, it doesn't discolour as copper does. A thin layer of acrylic gesso would work fine, too.
Juan
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10-11-2003, 10:50 AM
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#6
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Inactive
Joined: Jan 2002
Location: Siloam Springs, AR
Posts: 911
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Sand
Sometimes aluminum is highly "brushed" and would be hard to sand out. What may help is for you to sand again after your gesso is put down. Sand with a block until you see no lines and then coat one more time.
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10-14-2003, 06:49 AM
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#7
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Associate Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Location: Germany
Posts: 204
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Hi!
Thanks for your tips and advice!
Meanwhile, I think it was the combination ground white (name on the jar Juan, not gesso, surely a kind of acrylic) and aluminum. I started with the same configuration but on linen glued on wood and it is normal.
Thanks again!
PS: About lead: I read overall that essentially, no other "modern" white can replace it. Why? Strong film or rapid drying time? More opaque than titanium white? But sure, it is toxic and even has cumulative effects, although Cadmium and Chromium have too. Comic world....
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