Stretching Linen

[Sandy Barnes]

I have read many different versions of stretching instructions and am getting confused.

I am using raw linen on 40" x 21" stretchers. There is a cross brace in the center of the longest side. I have seen versions where the staples are placed on the backs of the stretcher while others demonstrate the sides.

This is my first attempt and although I have read that cotton is easier to work with, this is my prefered ground (gotta learn sometime ) I also read that unprimed linen is easier to work with and therefore chose this route. My main questions are as follows: How tight should I initially stretch before priming? What type primer should I use?

Any help in this area will be much appreciated.

[Allan Rahbek]

Hi Sandy,

I usually stretch all my canvases. I use Belgium linen, cotton is too soft, I think.

Make sure the stretchers are at right angles. Cut the linen about 2" too big on all sides. Staple on the first side (not the back) with 3-4 staples(1 staple per 1") making sure that you follow the trend.

Then you fix the opposite side the same way while you hold it tight, not so much as a drumskin, but some. Next you fix the 2 other sides tightening such as the middle of the linen become stretched and flat. Make sure the corners stay at a right angle.

Proceed with 2-3 staples towards the corners, shifting sides all the time until you reach the corner. Cut the superfluous linen or fix it on the back as you please.

Linen must be glued with animal glue to prevent the oil paint from filling the fibres. Then you can paint with what ever you wish. Gesso, acrylic or anything homecooked.

[Michele Rushworth]

I find primed linen is much easier since I don't have to worry about what to prime it with, in what layers or sequence (rabbit-skin animal glue, archival lead primer and and all that). I don't have to sand in between the layers of lead-based primer or worry about getting lead dust from all the sanding into the air and into my lungs.

I also understand that after priming linen with that sort of stuff you have to wait weeks or months until it is cured enough to work on. (Perhaps someone who actually does that process can jump in here and clarify.)

I buy rolls of Claessen's 13 double primed linen (thanks for the recommendation, Sharon Knettel!) and I love the stuff. You may find the single primed is a little easier to stretch. I just slice off a piece and after 20 minutes with my staple gun I'm ready to paint.

I stretched a 26 x 40" canvas just the other day and it came out drum tight, with a perfectly smooth primed surface and, best of all, it's ready to paint on as soon as I put in the last staple.

[Sandy Barnes]

Thanks Alan and Michele,

I would have bought the primed linen had I not read that it is difficult to work with. Sadly, I have a giant roll of it now.

I have read that rabbit skin glue is only necessary if using an oil based primer. Is this correct? Can I just use acrylic primer and skip the sizing? I am begining a commission and cannot afford the time for all of these steps as well as a month-long curing wait.

[Allan Rahbek]

Sandy,

You CAN use only acrylic primer on your raw linen. Then you must prime it and sand it and prime again. When it is dry you must stretch it a little.

The idea of rabbit skin glue is to isolate the fibres from being impregnated with oils, whitch will cause it to stiffen and eventually crack.

Another advantage is that you can allways stretch the canvas if there should be a pressuremark, you just moist the backside and the linen will stretch again.

But I agree with Michele that if you are in doubt, or are too wealthy, you should buy a ready made canvas.

I usualy prepare 10, or so, canvasses at a time.

[Michele Rushworth]

I would actually avoid moistening the back side of a canvas or linen if it were me. I'd be concerned that it would cause the priming/painting layers to separate from the fabric.

[Garth Herrick]

Sandy,

Don't forget to use canvas pliers. This will save you from sore fingers and give you much more even tensioned, professional results. If you already use them, then sorry, you can disregard my post.

[Allan Rahbek]

Michele,

About moistening the backside with water. This is only meant to be in the case of a bulge, (If the canvas lean to a sharp edge) you can stretch it again by moistening the backside of the canvas with water, where the bulge is, compri?

Not a general stretch as Garth refer to.

[Sandy Barnes]

But I agree with Michele that if you are in doubt, or are too wealthy, you should buy a ready made canvas.

Too wealthy, LOL.
For this job I would have bought ready made had I not needed an odd size. Also, I have been interested in begining my own stretching as ready-mades almost always are cut to the edge of the stretcher. Nothing to grab in the event it needs removing. I should have tested the "stretching and priming" waters before a paid job made it necessary to panic.

Then you must prime it and sand it and prime again.

On sanding. Lightly or heavy and with what weight sandpaper? May I use my sanding "mouse" for this job?

Thanks Garth, I do have a pair of pliers, albeit cheapies. If I'm going to stretch the balance of this roll I will need to upgrade

[Allan Rahbek]

Hi Sandy,

This is becoming very technical.

I am sorry, I misundrestood the word of "pliers" I thought it meant "wedge" - the things you use for stretching the canvas.

I am only Danish, and that is why I do not understand, ok? Just kidding, I am not new in this business. But I have to look most of it up, and sometimes I take the chance of not doing it.

You will not be sanding very heavy, just a light stroke to remowe the hairs sticking up, and then you prime 1 or 2 times again. When it is dry you can paint on it. You don