Glaze won't dry
 

I've read posts in this forum about a Liquin glaze that was still tacky after a week. I am having the same problem with a glaze made from Max Horbund's #3 medium and turpentine. It's been a week now, and it's still very tacky. I can't afford to wait for a long time for it to dry - it's on someone's Christmas gift!!

Can any one suggest a way to either remove the glaze safely (the paint underneath was dry to the touch, but only about two weeks old) or, better yet, remove the tackiness? To better describe its condition, when I press my finger on the glazed surface, I can see my fingerprint, yet it won't wipe off with a more determined swipe of the finger.

Thanks, Susan Kuban

It doesn't sound as if you can safely remove the glaze.

Patience isn't my middle name either, so I'd try putting the painting in a warm dry place with a fan on it. Maybe in a sunny window or near a heating vent?

BTW I've used Liquin for years and never had a problem with it drying too slowly.

Susan,

Sorry you are having this problem! It is a pain. I have had similar problems when the canvas is the end of the roll from the manufacturer, and it has "oily" spots, some covering the entire canvas. This causes the paint applied to dry extremely slowly. Also, the paint dries unevenly on the canvas, and can even dry into paint rings. If you are having this problem with both mediums, it might be the canvas and not the medium.

Unfortunately, as Karin stated, I don't think you can safely remove the Liquin/paint without causing bigger problem to occur. I have found that spraying with retouch varnish can speed up drying time. I don't think there would be a problem with the Liquin already applied. (...althought you might want to wait to see if there is disagreement with this before trying it...).

Peggy

Thanks Peggy. I never heard of this problem with "oily" canvas. I assume that because I mostly use acrylic primed canvas, this has never happened to me but it is something to watch out for with oil primed canvas.

Can you tell me the brand or brands that you have had problems with? Is it both cotton and linen canvas?

This happened with Fredrix Rix (single primed oil) canvas a number of years ago. I have since talked with others who had the problem with different brands of canvas. The canvas has a visible "hardness" to it. A slick quality. The paint does not adhere well initially, and then dries too slowly, and unevenly.

It is not necessary to toss out an "end run" canvas, I just rub it down with mineral spirits, removing the excess oil and making it more receptive to the paint.

Peggy

Susan,

I'd wipe the glaze off with an old cotton T-shirt and odorless mineral spirits. If you're careful, the underpainting will stay put. If it doesn't, repaint it. I wouldn't use that medium again, either.

It sounds like you're using too much medium, as many people do who do a lot of glazing. Too much medium and too little pigment will create problematic, weak paint films. From a standpoint of permanence, glazing is best used as an embellishment, a final refining touch, rather than a technique in itself. A lot more can be done with opaque paint than with glazes. The two can be used together to good effect, if one knows how.

Virgil Elliott