It is important to cut the board from the right side to avoid loose fibers on the front side.
The side that is to be the front have to be upside when cutting it with a handheld saw so that the teeth will cut from the front and only rip up the fibers on the backside.
If you cut with a handheld circular saw it must be cut from the back of cause.

Allan

Yes, Allan, thanks. I forgot to mention that. Also a sharp blade is important. Dropping the stuff means you can kiss it goodbye as well.


Sharon, is that true?! That is fantastic news. No problem with oils? I am shocked an amazed. I can't wait to try it! I have tons of it on hand from a local specialty hardwood store. They love it for cabinet making. I abhor priming surfaces with gesso. It reminds me of painting rooms which I also avoid at all costs. :)

Thanks for the hot tip!

Sharon,
I guess that you mean, no gesso when used for pastels ?

When used for oil I would prefer a light painted ground of some kind. If it should be gesso or simply oil paint depends on the grade of absorbency you prefer.

Allan

Lisa,

The same stuff, just make sure it is MDF, not MDO. It is great stuff.

Actually, I left out a minor step, you do have to size it with rabbit skin glue, something you can cook on top of your stove. Ralph Mayer's book has the method.

That is right, NO GESSO for oils! The man is a wealth of information, I spent 2 1/2 hours with him on the phone,

You have to gesso for pastel because you need the grit.

Mr. Harding says it is one of the best and most stable supports around. Much better than any wood panel on the market and way better than canvas.

My cabinet maker suggest having it cradled in thicker widths of MDF, but you can use oak which is quite strong.

Allan, if you want want a lighter background, just use white paint over the glue.

Cheap, archival and easy.

Sharon, do you know why it has to be sized? Jus curious.

Lisa,

After 2 1/2 hours on the phone with him, my head was buzzing, and I did not ask.

Two reasons I suspect.

1) The acid from the oils would not be able to react with the substrate
2)The oils would not be easily absorbed by the MDF so would not look dead and dry.

I am only using MDF panels now to paint on. A carpenter makes them for me with cradled backs, then I rough up the surface and apply three layers of gesso, sanding in between coats. Then I tone it and I'm good to go. I love these panels, no bouncing when I paint and such a silky surface to work on. Next I'll be gluing linen on them and I think I'll really love that surface to paint on.

I haven't tried painting on them without gesso, maybe I'll try that next. It just doesn't seem right. :bewildere

Jean

This is great news for me! I have a source of free mdf panels of various sizes.
As long as rabbit skin glue does not involve boiling any rabbits I will give it a go and see how this support works for me.
I don't know what "cradling" means but I suspect there's a post about it somewhere on this forum.
Thanks for the info, Sharon!

I wouldn't recommend doing that when using oils. Any natural fiber support be it MDF, Masonite, linen, or cotton will eventually suffer deterioration from the acids present in oil paint. The rule of thumb when using natural fiber supports is to size them with either a hide glue or acrylic emulsion.

Ooops! I missed post #14 :o

Max,

It was a LONG conversation, and I was writing from memory, a bad choice on my part. I remembered the sizing part, to my horror, only when my head hit the pillow.

Some artists like the luminosity of a gesso surface, some a naturally toned surface, but Max you are right, BOTH HAVE TO BE SIZED.