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07-22-2007, 02:59 PM
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#21
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Approved Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,730
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Two yellows I love, both Micheal Hardings.
Naples Genuine light
Yellow Ochre.
Most Naples Yellows are a mixture of a white and a Cadmium Yellow. Micheal Hardings is not. It is a clear light yellow, a tad cool. It is great for lightening colors while not making them ashen, especially reds.
It is exquisite in light skin-tones as well.
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07-22-2007, 05:46 PM
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#22
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Juried Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Location: Binghamton, NY
Posts: 247
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Yes, the one that I am using is from Williamsburg. On the color chart it's Naples yellow Italian, PBr 24, chrome titanate.
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07-22-2007, 06:08 PM
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#23
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Approved Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,730
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Linda Ciallelo
Yes, the one that I am using is from Williamsburg. On the color chart it's Naples yellow Italian, PBr 24, chrome titanate.
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That is a horse of a different color. It is not the same pigment at all. Here is Micheal Hardings. Try it, it is exquiste in skin-tones. I have never wanted for another light yellow.
http://www.michaelharding.co.uk/colour-info.php?cID=131
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07-22-2007, 06:26 PM
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#24
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Juried Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Location: Binghamton, NY
Posts: 247
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharon Knettell
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Is that the same as "lead Tin yellow"?
OK, I do have a little extra money today and some time with the computer. I'll go order some Michael Harding paint.
PS. Yes I was just reading about the Michael Harding yellow from your link, and the Lead Tin Yellow that I got from Doaks will react with the metal on the pallet knife also, so it's probably the same chemical. It's several years old now so I need some more.
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07-22-2007, 06:33 PM
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#25
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Approved Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,730
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Linda Ciallelo
Is that the same as "lead Tin yellow"?
OK, I do have a little extra money today and some time with the computer. I'll go order some Michael Harding paint.
PS. Yes I was just reading about the Michael Harding yellow from your link, and the Lead Tin Yellow that I got from Doaks will react with the metal on the pallet knife also, so it's probably the same chemical. It's several years old now so I need some more.
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Yes indeedy! It is good old lead tin yellow! You will love it. It goes a long way.
How does it react? I do not seem to have had a negative result with it using my cheapo palette knife.
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07-22-2007, 06:40 PM
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#26
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Juried Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Location: Binghamton, NY
Posts: 247
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Just reading their description of Michael Hardings cremnitz white ground in walnut oil has gotten me all excited. I have long been a fan of walnut oil and as I have said before, it's the feel under the brush that makes the difference. It appears that they also know that to be true.
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07-22-2007, 06:43 PM
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#27
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Juried Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Location: Binghamton, NY
Posts: 247
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharon Knettell
Yes indeedy! It is good old lead tin yellow! You will love it. It goes a long way.
How does it react? I do not seem to have had a negative result with it using my cheapo palette knife.
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It will cause some graying of the color. The yellow if mixed with anything metal will have some strange gray streaks in it. I noticed it before I knew what it was. It's still usable though, even if that happens.
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07-23-2007, 12:04 PM
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#28
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Juried Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Location: London,UK
Posts: 640
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Hi to all, can I also bring to your attention the amazing Harding's lemon yellow ? A cool cool yellow that goes toward green with a good enough tinting power (not similar to the chart on the website) beautiful in mixes and great for accents. I think that it's a pure colour that can't be obtained from mixing without loosing chroma.
Worth having.
Ilaria
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