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Old 02-27-2003, 12:12 AM   #11
Michael Georges Michael Georges is offline
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Below is my small wooden palette. It is 1/8th inch birch plywood that is stained with Burnt Sienna and sealed with Tung Oil (6 coats). It was traced from Bill Whitaker's palette of the same size.

I love the thing.

I clean it with mineral spirits and I don't let paint dry on it if I can help it. If I do, then Oil of Spike cleans it right up. I rub walnut oil into it after each session and polish it up. It gets more beautiful each day.
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Old 02-27-2003, 12:30 AM   #12
Enzie Shahmiri Enzie Shahmiri is offline
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Hi Michael,

That is a beautiful palette. Thanks for the tip.
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Old 02-27-2003, 01:02 AM   #13
Michele Rushworth Michele Rushworth is offline
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I scrape my palette off with a palette knife and when I really feel like getting all of the old paint off and starting with a clean slate, I sand it and then re-oil the sanded areas. I do that about once a week.

In between those times I keep my palette and brushes, with all the paint still on, wrapped in Saran Wrap in the freezer.
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Old 02-27-2003, 09:24 AM   #14
Jeff Fuchs Jeff Fuchs is offline
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Michael,

Another way to clean dried paint: Brush Cleaner, available at any home improvement store (or Wal Mart, I suppose). This is the best stuff to have around the house. Not just for artists, but anyone. It's great for removing paint, even from brushes that have dried, caked-on paint. I've used it to get creosote off my boat, and for removing silicone caulk. You'll wonder how you got along without it.

Unlike paint stripper, Brush cleaner is safe to handle, and won't destroy plastics.
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Old 02-27-2003, 10:08 AM   #15
Marvin Mattelson Marvin Mattelson is offline
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Easy clean

I discard all paint at the end of the day and mix fresh the following morning. Its much better to avoid "old" paint.
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Old 02-27-2003, 02:48 PM   #16
Rochelle Brown Rochelle Brown is offline
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I got tired of fussing with mine and have been using a double layer of wax paper taped on the back.
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Old 02-27-2003, 03:02 PM   #17
Michele Rushworth Michele Rushworth is offline
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There's a whole other thread about saving your paint:

http://forum.portraitartist.com/show...hlight=freezer
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Old 02-27-2003, 11:14 PM   #18
Elizabeth Schott Elizabeth Schott is offline
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Here is a discussion on all the different types of arm palettes: weighted palettes
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Old 05-01-2003, 11:27 PM   #19
Timothy C. Tyler Timothy C. Tyler is offline
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Couple of things

Firstly, try a real mahogany palette - not plywood for pure soulfulness. Second, there are two linens mentioned above here that you need to understand, both for sale thru Utrecht; Classens' primed and Utrecht primed-single or double primed...maybe that's 4 types huh? I've found all may offer you knots where smooth cheeks may ought to be. There are finer portrait linens available which you will need worry less about bumps and knots - I mean finer as a non-judgement term.
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Old 05-02-2003, 07:44 AM   #20
Sharon Knettell Sharon Knettell is offline
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Tim,

I hate to be a downer but the soul of the rainforests is being raped for mahogany. The soul should be in the painting.

There are many Claessens, I am sure you must be referring to the 13DP and the 13DP. I get mine from New York Central Art, as they carry the 84" width. Actually they carry the best lines of canvas available anywhere and will custom prime and stretch.
www.nycentralart.com

Sincerely,
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