ND70 - Page 3

Mike McCarty · 01-08-2005, 03:52 PM

Quote:

I'm guessing that at that format you can expect to get about 70 exposures on one card. Does that sound right?

John,

That's close if you're using a 256K card. My camera indicates 72 image possibilities when I use a 256K card. I find though that the camera is using a worst case scenario to get this number. Some images take up more space than others. So, I find that in reality I can get well over 100.

That 72 becomes a 23 when you set the image to RAW.

Michele Rushworth · 01-08-2005, 06:11 PM

I also shoot with my D70 at the largest JPEG file format, like Mike. I haven't the software/time to learn how to manipulate the RAW files when I do so much in Photoshop with my JPEG files.

John Reidy · 01-09-2005, 09:56 AM

Thanks for the input. I feel reluctant to use jpg format because every time you save, you further compress the file. I may try the large jpg format and once on the computer, convert to a TIFF. Or I may choose to use a second memory card (512k?).

I still haven't purchased the camera yet but plan on soon and am trying to iron out as many questions as possible before I crack open my wallet.

Thanks again for all of your advice. This forum has been a blessing.

John

Michele Rushworth · 01-09-2005, 11:47 AM

I have two 512 MB memory cards with room for about 175 large, high quality JPEG images on each. I don't often shoot more than that in a day, but I have the second card as a backup. (I've had two of these CF-type memory cards completely fail on me and become unreadable without warning. Still don't know exactly why that happened.)

Once the images have been transferred to my computer, I store one set on my hard drive to work with and one set on a CD that gets put away and not touched.

I don't save and resave the JPEG images that are on my computer, though, so the issue of re-compression is not a problem. I keep one unchanged copy of each photo and I save any edited versions with a different file name, usually as Photoshop PSD file because by then they usually have many layers.

Yes, I use a lot of CD's to archive the images, and I had to upgrade my hard drive last year too, but those things don't cost much.

Mike McCarty · 01-09-2005, 11:50 AM

Michele,

Were your memory card failures in connection with your D70?

Michele Rushworth · 01-09-2005, 12:05 PM

No, they were with my old Minolta, and franky, I think I may have caused the problem myself by not waiting long enough after accessing or storing an image before turning off the camera. At least I hope that was the reason, so I can avoid that problem in the future!

Elizabeth Schott · 01-10-2005, 12:59 AM

Sorry Jimmie and all you Nikon guys, a Canon person jumping in here.

Jimmie, if you are getting a slight blur and have "old age eyes", which you don't since you are such a young'n... you should have a diopter adjustment on the view finder of your camera, this might need adjustment. The Canon will not let you do a auto focus unless the flash is accessible. It cannot read the focus without the right amount of light. This is really disappointing for me. Sometimes I shoot it in auto then switch to manual just to make sure I have the right focus.

On the Canon, the cable shutter release is plugged into the side where you attach your USB cord. Personally, I don't care if your camera is set in concrete, you never touch it during a longer exposure and the self timer is so annoying, especially when shooting children. I have a cable release which attaches, it was only 40 dollars and functions like a standard SLR's - meaning a 1/2 pressure touch gives you meter readings, press full and you get shutter release. I still keep my eye in the view finder while shooting mainly so light is not seeping in. I have not looked at the remote ones.

Michele, you should check out the Gig memory cards now, I couldn't believe that they are now the same price as 1/2 the memory was a year ago.

Jimmie Arroyo · 01-10-2005, 01:28 AM

Quote:

The Canon will not let you do a auto focus unless the flash is accessible. It cannot read the focus without the right amount of light. This is really disappointing for me. Sometimes I shoot it in auto then switch to manual just to make sure I have the right focus.

I just realized that was the exact problem I am having with the Nikon. I took photos recently of a girl and of her mom. The pics with a flash came out very clear, whereas the others in lower light did not. For the Nikon owners, is there a way to make the model light near the lens turn on. Sometimes it works, sometimes it does'nt. If not, I will have to do the same as Beth, turning to manual. Thanks for bringing it up Beth.

Michele, I did'nt think it would make a difference, but the Nikon Capture software, recommended by Marvin is incredible. It was worth the extra $90. (if interested, I found it cheapest at the time thru CDW) When using RAW or NEF files, it helps adjusts photos better than Photoshop ever did, and quicker. I love the temperature control on it. It changes your original pic to daylight, flash, incandescent, etc... Then you can adjust it further by making it cooler or warmer with a slide bar. After, you can send it to Photoshop for any further manipulations. It may sound like a longer process now, but imho, it's quicker at getting better results. Then you press a button which automatically sends it to Photoshop if you need to do any erasing, copying, cutting and so on. I found it saves time in the long run. Hopefully Marvin can chime in to agree or disagree.

Michele Rushworth · 01-10-2005, 10:20 AM

Thanks, Jimmie. Sounds like I'll have to look into that.

Mike McCarty · 01-10-2005, 10:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jimmie Arroyo

I just realized that was the exact problem I am having with the Nikon. I took photos recently of a girl and of her mom. The pics with a flash came out very clear, whereas the others in lower light did not. For the Nikon owners, is there a way to make the model light near the lens turn on. Sometimes it works, sometimes it does'nt. If not, I will have to do the same as Beth, turning to manual.

About the low light without a flash -- Do you recal what the ISO setting was? You really have to manage this setting in low light. If you leave it at 200 your shutter speed can drop to a point that will allow you to pick up very slight body / camera movement and thus make the picture blurry. I have gone as high as 800 ISO with acceptable results. As far as the other problem -- I don't think I understand.