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Old 10-28-2003, 02:37 PM   #14
Chris Saper Chris Saper is offline
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Joined: Jun 2001
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From Mr. Gamblin

Dear Chris:

I usually do not have the time to jump into discussions on web site forums, I would love to do so, it but I am challenged trying to keep up with the volume of email questions that come through our web site. But since you asked so nicely....


In general our approach to making mediums is much better understood by seeing our medium brochure, if anyone would like one please send an email to [email protected] and Katie would be happy to get one in the mail to you.

Erika: Galkyd Lite's thinness is because it is formulated to be a low viscosity medium. In addition we make high viscosity and gel viscosity mediums. In all three categories we have fast and slower drying formulas.

Alkyd resin is essentially polymerized oil, like Stand oil which is a polymerized oil. It is called a "resin" since alkyd is so highly polymerized that it initially dries like a resin, by solvent evaporation. But nevertheless, since is is essentially oil, it also dries like oil, it skins over then dries under the skin as time goes by.

I am guessing that in your case, the alkyd glaze skinned over, then you touched it with a brush or with solvent and broke the skin allowing for the wet glaze below to easily be removed.


Stanka: The fast drying Galkyds are clearly not for you. We make slower drying mediums at all viscosities that allow for a longer "open" time. I intend that if you like one of our mediums then you will dislike the others. I suggest you try our Neo Megilp if you want to give them another shot.

Marvin: You are right that alkyd can be very difficult to get out of brushes. For fine haired brushes they should be cleaned in a mineral spirit, rather than an odorless mineral spirit, then washed with a mild soap. With bristle brushes I use an excellent product, Aquasol, to clean the mediums out of brushes, then wash them with mild soap. This works even if the brushes are dry and stiff.

The problems they can cause with brushes are because of their good properties: they dry with a very tough yet flexible paint film.

Lisa: If you read all the print on the Turpenoid Natural can you will see that Martin F. Weber, the manufacturer, does not recommend that you put the product into your paint layers. You can see why if you pour out a small amount onto a clean surface, like a paint can lid, and then watch what happens to it over the next three to four months.


Thanks for asking for my input, sincerely,
Robert Gamblin
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