Thanks everyone for the excellent info, you've convinced me to try real oil paint. You also summed up and clarified a lot of the basics. However, I'm wondering about drying time, as I don't want to use anything with lead in it. I had enough exposure to lead and other nasties when I used to do a lot of soldering in engineering. Using a linseed (or walnut) base paint, how many days would it take for it to dry such that I could paint a new layer on top?
Marvin,
Yep, I certainly remember you saying I should switch to oils, and I'm ready to take the plunge, however with one foot in the water and one foot still on ground (or acrylics). I learned about cleaning brushes with only oil and soap from reading one of your earlier posts, and I'll try the GamVar. From what you said it certainly seems best to avoid resins when possible. However back in
this post you were using the Mgraham alkyd resin. Do you just use it sparingly? I'm going to try flake white replacement instead of real flake white (with lead). Hopefully the long drying time of straight oil paint will not be too discouraging.
Michael,
Thanks very much for the info. on the basics. It must be much easier to use OMS to clean brushes than just oil and soap? According to Gamblin's
document , it seems as if it still should be used with proper care. I'll take a look at Oil of Spike Lavendar.
Renee,
I read about Neo-Megilp on the forum, and I'm still a little unclear. Some people said it took longer to dry (2 to 3 days) than they'd like. Is it basically an alkyd that does speed the drying time of straight oil paint but not as fast as say Mgraham's walnut oil/alkyd resin (which I read can dry overnight)? Are they basically two different formulations of the same thing (an alkyd resin)?
Thanks again,