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Lips etc
Enzie, there are key spots that I look for in paintings. You'll note this with other painters' work...Sargent is a good one. Note how the color at the edge of the lower lip in the shadow fades away into the skin tones just below...very softly.
Another point you'll want to think on is that be careful that you don't get the key (Or intensity) too high in stuff like the headdress. It would be helpful to see the Sargent you ref.-I expect there is less chroma in his work in places like the dress and hat. Light unifies stuff and he painted sight-size from life.
These are delicate things, and to quote Sargent, "In the really delicate passages one must work really hard to get those right.". (That's very loosely quoted.)
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